Engine assembly chemicals

[hoodeng]

As is evident by the posts so far there are a number of types of engine that can be treated differently in their assembly and preparation, so obviously there is no, 'one application suits all' , Joe works on a type of engine that can be mechanically primed without turning the engine , i work on an engine where the pump is internally geared to the crankshaft so can't be primed without turning the engine . In my instance the coatings will ensure a safe first start up till the pump picks up, in Joe's instance an oil can and drill will give the result he wants .
There were a range of earlier models that had the oil tank above the pump and would self prime ,the manufacturer now makes all big twin models with the reservoir under the trans ,also all gallery's are now internal so priming through a feed line is now no longer an option.
The picture is of a primer i use for lifters.

I just saw Modok's post and his reference to people handling parts causing marking ,,,and how !!!! ,,, most guys that work in an oily environment don't seem to leave finger prints or marks on finished surfaces, but i would have to say people that are mainly office , clean skin workers ,soil environment workers can leave animal tracks on anything that is even slightly reactive,,,,, i don't like anyone touching parts that i have prepped for assembly ,even an owner ,no matter how clean they say their hands are ,it's not how clean they are ,it's how acid/alkaline still they are.

Cheers.

[mag2555]

I have seen more then a few failed home builds where so much assy Moly was used that not only did the rings not seat , but the oil filter from what I saw upon cutting it open was blocked off by 50%, not good when one of these same misguided souls where running straight 50 weight oil for fire up time!

[Frankshaft]

The best assembly lube to use, dollar for dollar, on bearings, wristpins and guides/valves is Lucas heavy duty oil stabaluzer. $10 for a big bottle. In fact, it says right on the bottle, use as a premium assembly lube.

Don't use it on piston skirts, cylinders or rings. A LITE coating of oil on the top half of cylinder, a little on the skirts, a film on the rings. Even a light mist of wd-40 or jb-80, because it's twice as good, on the rings and rings grooves. The other thing, you don't need massive amounts of the stuff. Especially the assembly lube. The oil will just run off, the assembly lube just makes a mess. Dunking pistons in a bucket of oil is not needed, and can actually be bad for the rings.

[tresi]

I've used Lubriplate 105 for most of my life, break in engine oil for the cylinder walls, etc and a moly-based cam lube (Cranes stuff or Rev Lube usually).

Not a fan of the syrup Comp sent me the last few times.

x2

[crazycuda]

Had an old builder tell me that they used to use virgin olive oil on the skirts and rings. I was but he was totally serous

[Krooser]

Had an old builder tell me that they used to use virgin olive oil on the skirts and rings. I was but he was totally serous

Only on Ferraris

[cgarb]

I as a young lad I bent the crankshaft in our push mower by accidentally hitting a cut off tree stump in some tall grass. My dad took the engine apart, pulled the crank out and took it to his work to put it in the press to straighten the crank. When we got home and reassembled the little 3.5hp briggs he realized that we did not have any motor oil at the house, at all. Not even used oil. I finished mowing that day with vegetable oil in the crankcase. we changed it out the next time we mowed but the mower survived and mowed for many more years.

[user-17438]

The best assembly lube to use, dollar for dollar, on bearings, wristpins and guides/valves is Lucas heavy duty oil stabaluzer. $10 for a big bottle. In fact, it says right on the bottle, use as a premium assembly lube.

Don't use it on piston skirts, cylinders or rings. A LITE coating of oil on the top half of cylinder, a little on the skirts, a film on the rings. Even a light mist of wd-40 or jb-80, because it's twice as good, on the rings and rings grooves. The other thing, you don't need massive amounts of the stuff. Especially the assembly lube. The oil will just run off, the assembly lube just makes a mess. Dunking pistons in a bucket of oil is not needed, and can actually be bad for the rings.

Some people cut it with oil so it flowz

[user-17438]

If I know an engine will sit a while before the dyno or it's run, I use Joe Gibbs or Redline. I use a brush to apply it and use very little. 16oz will last me about 20 engines or more depending on application.

Sometimes less is more.

Some people will use expensive lubes only to flush it into the pan by priming their oil.

If an engine is going straight to dyno, I use oil in bearings and a pressure lube on the valve train. Like Joe Gibbs, Redline, or CMD. The cylinder walls are wiped with amzoil fogging oil and nothing is out on rings or skirts. In a pinch I will substitute for 2 stroke oil.

[BOOT]

I use Lucas assembly lube stuff is real sticky, wear gloves!

I've herd people in the past complain about the sludge layer from assembly lube on the bottom of an oil pan, but last pan I pulled with some failed small parts the sludge held the pieces.

[Morgo]

When assembling heads I use 50/50 motor oil and STP.STP just to make lube a goo;not for the lubricating properties.Short block the bearings get same and for piston/rings plain WD40.

[Krooser]

My last hot rod engine sat for three years in my shop...oiled up and ready to go. Before I fired it I used a borescope to peek in the cylinders and found small amounts of rust on a couple cylinders right under the head.

I pulled the heads, sanded off the corrosion which was less than 1/8" wide and buttoned it up.

Next time I have one sit I'll fog it throughly.

[af2]

My last hot rod engine sat for three years in my shop...oiled up and ready to go. Before I fired it I used a borescope to peek in the cylinders and found small amounts of rust on a couple cylinders right under the head.

I pulled the heads, sanded off the corrosion which was less than 1/8" wide and buttoned it up.

Next time I have one sit I'll fog it throughly.

Comet in the plug hole would have saved you time............................................

[Krooser]

My last hot rod engine sat for three years in my shop...oiled up and ready to go. Before I fired it I used a borescope to peek in the cylinders and found small amounts of rust on a couple cylinders right under the head.

I pulled the heads, sanded off the corrosion which was less than 1/8" wide and buttoned it up.

Next time I have one sit I'll fog it throughly.

Comet in the plug hole would have saved you time............................................

Thanks...I think!

[n2xlr8n]

I'm a hobby assembler, but I've always used clevite assy lube on bearings, dino oil on skirts and pins, and just enough oil on the pinch surface of the ring to make it shiny. I try not to use flat tappet cams at all, but in that case I'll use moly on the cam with break in springs.

I started using Quikseat after Keith @ TS and I were discussing the difficulty seating AP steel rings due to the engine's design. I had so much success with the product that I started using it with all the engines I built from that point.