Hydraulic rollers sbc

[rocketracer380]

Off the top of my head it's a 110 lsa and 600" square have to look at the during specs I believe it's comps largest hr cam

[F-BIRD'88]

So it could be Comps Magnum cs304hr-10 (244@..050)

or Comp Magnum cs314HR-10 (252@.050)

If so the rec spring #987-16 is pretty mild for racing at 6500rpm+

If you run into top end rpm limit power loss
Float or lifter pump up etc)

you can try more spring...like a Crane #96870-16

set at 1.85" to 1.90" installed height.

use ONLY 1.5 rockers. !!!

This spring will control the valves much better at higher rpms.

But if the increased spring load overpowers the hyd lifter
causing hyd lifter bleed down, then you can
1. reduce seat and open spring load by increasing installed height a bit
as required.

Or... 2. swap the hyd roller lifters for solid ROLLER LIFTERS.
Now with that then set the COLD VALVE LASH @.002"-.004".
set Cold..
Then run it and check what the hot lash is.
.004" to .006" ish is your target.

Any of these 1.46" dual coil valve springs req machining on vortec heads.


If you must use that cam thats how you do it.

There is a practical limit on valve spring loads on hyd roller lifters.... switching to solid roller lifters allows using the much
better higher spring loads thus much better high rpm valve control... More rpm more top end power.

No hyd roller lifter pump up, collapse float issues.
Not effected by airated motor oil under racing conditions.

vortec heads will need screwin studs, guideplates and spring seat valve guide boss machining for any of these springs.

[F-BIRD'88]

I'd say the comp 987 spring will crap out about 6000-6200 rpm.. Power loss at 6500+ rpm.

If you see this now you know what to do.

[F-BIRD'88]

With either of those magnum hr cams don't be afraid to
play around with the cams installed position
(installed intake centerline) as required to get the engine/car power curve right.

varing the valve lash setting if using solid roller lifters
a small bit +/- also has a effect on resulting valve events.
effects duration +/- a bit..

Another alternative spring is a KMotion K800 set at 1.80"
This one WILL need solid roller lifters.

You will get the best result by ditching the hyd roller cam
for a solid roller cam/lifters and matching springs.

All the Comp xr solid street rollers are available as custom grinds too with oval track friendly tight LSA if needed.
All you need do is call.

Sell that hr setup to someone you don't like to fund
a real roller cam setup.

[F-BIRD'88]

Is this a oval track thingy?

[steve316]

F-bird in witch of your posts did you answer the question that the original poster asked.

[F-BIRD'88]

F-bird in witch of your posts did you answer the question that the original poster asked.

Y not read them ALL again. "Witch" then it just might come to you.
Read...slow if you half to.

[treyrags]

Well at least Chris, Vortec, and Dave offered meaningful information before this thread was wrecked

[F-BIRD'88]

Glad you think so.. How could they answer that question without knowing what cam and what valvetrain etc?

Other than bragging. But glad you think so. Not all cams are equal. The only one that matters is the one you want to use.

[peejay]

If you want the higher rpm capability and power just save yourself a lot of time and money and bother
and get a solid roller cam with solid roller lifters.
If it a street motor or not a serious money making competition race car motor
consider a solid street roller cam and lifter set. Out performs hyd rollers.
Lower cost, more rpm and power where it counts. Less fuss in the end.

SO your thoughts are to install solids in every engine even thought the customer doesnt know one damn thing about adjusting valves. I totally disagree to go to solids is the best fix. .
reed

Adjusting valves is pretty simple. If the guy can't do that, he needs to go golf or something.

Depends a lot on the application. I can think of a few installs where removing a valve cover is a multi hour nightmare. Anything to minimize/prevent having to do that on a regular basis is good.

And there are always the street customers who don't do maintenance at ALL. Solid rollers with a hot cam in a BBC don't like it when you run them 20k mles without pulling a valve cover. The valves really hate it too.

[DaveMcLain]

SO your thoughts are to install solids in every engine even thought the customer doesnt know one damn thing about adjusting valves. I totally disagree to go to solids is the best fix. .
reed

Adjusting valves is pretty simple. If the guy can't do that, he needs to go golf or something.

Depends a lot on the application. I can think of a few installs where removing a valve cover is a multi hour nightmare. Anything to minimize/prevent having to do that on a regular basis is good.

And there are always the street customers who don't do maintenance at ALL. Solid rollers with a hot cam in a BBC don't like it when you run them 20k mles without pulling a valve cover. The valves really hate it too.

Some boat setups are a good example of it being a pain to remove the covers because of the water cooled exhaust manifolds. Why they are made that way seems to not make a whole lot of sense either. They are an excellent application for a hydraulic roller.

[statsystems]

SO your thoughts are to install solids in every engine even thought the customer doesnt know one damn thing about adjusting valves. I totally disagree to go to solids is the best fix. .
reed

Adjusting valves is pretty simple. If the guy can't do that, he needs to go golf or something.

Depends a lot on the application. I can think of a few installs where removing a valve cover is a multi hour nightmare. Anything to minimize/prevent having to do that on a regular basis is good.

And there are always the street customers who don't do maintenance at ALL. Solid rollers with a hot cam in a BBC don't like it when you run them 20k mles without pulling a valve cover. The valves really hate it too.

That's true peejay. I was referring to the actual lashing of valves. My cousin has a Firebird and he can't get the drivers side valve cover off without pulling the master cylinder. So for him it's a PITA to do. I'm not sure why he can't get the VC off without the MC being taken off.

Running through the valves is pretty easy and most guys should get the hang of it pretty quickly.

[j-c-c]

Depends a lot on the application. I can think of a few installs where removing a valve cover is a multi hour nightmare. Anything to minimize/prevent having to do that on a regular basis is good.

Chrysler old school big block long rams comes to mind.

[steve316]

F-bird I reread them and your still full of bs

[kimosabi]

If you want the higher rpm capability and power just save yourself a lot of time and money and bother
and get a solid roller cam with solid roller lifters.
If it a street motor or not a serious money making competition race car motor
consider a solid street roller cam and lifter set. Out performs hyd rollers.
Lower cost, more rpm and power where it counts. Less fuss in the end.

No need to go solid for a street 7000rpm deal. Work out the valvetrain geometry, use good parts and make sure you have good oil and oil passages.

FWIW I beat on my 400sbc with 4708 Morel lifters to 6500-7000rpm from time to time. Valvesprings are a bit too weak for 7000rpm but up to 6500 it pulls like a freight train, over that she starts floatin. If you wanna put that on anything else then valvesprings I got spring spec for you: Pac 1215 beehives 105 seat, 313 rate and 293 open. Valves are 2.08 with .540 lift. Oil is Royal Purple HPS 10-40.

Yes Sir, we have float. Step up on some stronger beehives in near future.