Porting questions for E7TE’s

[travis]

A couple of questions about a set of E7TE’s for a mild low $$$ 351w build.

1) When shaping the intake guide boss, with a boat tail shape, do you “point” the trailing side towards the center of the cylinder, keep it inline with the port, or ??? Does this have any effect on swirl at all?

2) Exhaust guide boss...I have read numerous articles and write ups about completely cutting the guide boss out of the port, stating that there is still plenty of guide left for long term durability above the port. Thoughts?

3) I’m going to go slightly oversized on the valves...probably 1.84/1.50 Chevy valves, as from what I am reading these are about the cheapest/easiest solution for better flow and to get rid of the short 1.66” installed height exhaust valve...plus these have a couple of slightly sunken exhaust seats that need corrected anyway. I don’t own a machine shop and have never upgraded a head with bigger valves...do I take them to a machine shop and have the seats rough cut before doing any bowl/throat work? Can someone show me a good shape to try to achieve on the short turn with a slightly bigger valve?

Thanks!

[NXBOY]

I can help some, but others might have a little better Ideas , so thats cool. It will be easier to get the E7 on the Intake to flow then these 289 54 cc chambers I'm doing I would think. Any first size the bowl 88-90 percent of the valve your using. I would say Hard to beat a 1.90 valve. When ya Tear drop the guide and make it alot thinner. If ya leave a vane behind most people turn it about 10-20 degrees, I think cam lift and RPM would make a small amount of how much swirl your trying to add. Too much ain't good for Top end I believe . A little unshrouding would help in chamber too. I like to use a 30 degree cut on top. A good V/J really helps flow. Yes a machine shop really needs to bowl hog bowls if ya use 1.90 valve or 1.94. The 1.94 the same price as 1.84s, Chevy Valves 1.94 and 1.60 stainless for under $100. The Short Turn and the bigger valve is really whats important to feed a 351w. You need to use a 1262 gasket raising the roof as far as you can inward. Just Blend the Intake to gasket on the sides and make the port wider by taking metal off the pushrod pinch side only to about 1 inch should be close and safe. Can look at my 351w heads on the last part of 289 heads post. SSR was not rolled aggressively back and with a 1.82 went like mid 220s cfm.

Really hate giving advice without every bit of combo head need to be tweeked to complement combo down to weight of vehicle and converter/ cam for starters is very important to enhance each other. 351w can be a Great for torque. It can be Important to know if 1/8 mile versus 1/4. In the 1/4 Hp usually rules, but in the 1/8 60 ft usually does on comparable builds. Not sure how much meat is under a E7 SSR so someone else will need to help you there. Don't go too thin on the exhaust side of Bowl on the Intake, core shift BIT me there once on the 351w head and all heads have some and its hotter there so probably could use being thicker. Round any sharp edges in chamber, Use atleast a ruff 40 grit on intake port. I usually finish with a ruff round stone and use a extension on it. If your serious taking in the .100 raised roof all the way past the guides will help also but 75 thousands might be safer. I measured mine and was .100 deeper and didn't break through but might be too thin, but doubt it by the sound of Bur. If ya run alot of lift don't take A ton out in bowl area behind the valve. Try to widen the SSR to a D shape some where close to roof width at the crest in that area if ya feel brave?? The Fast ones take the chance or buys a expensive Sonic Thickness testers. I didn't like my Ebay one much as it was off alot due to setting not right for the metal tested. Aluminum was Dead on though and wasn't programable to correct to known thickness of the materal of part working on.. Again I've never actually Done a E7 when a Dooe Head is so easy to get with alot bigger ports/bowls to start. The port is really too small for a 351, can't make it too big in port for sure. I think I've seen 150 cc out of them. There is plenty of ported E7 post out there. I would do alot of searching and reading. Yes the valve guide can be removed from the exhaust port but be sure to have valve job done first as this will throw off the Pilot for cutter usually. Check headers First, be sure header is ideally bigger then port, but for sure not smaller, most ford headers suds on street type ones. Hope I helped a little. Been out of Smallblocks for 16 yrs vand forgot alot, but up on bigblocks lol, but so is GAS UP lol !. GOOD luck...,ED

[mag2555]

The shape of the Intake valve guide in these Heads does not have much effect on high lift flow numbers, but the shape does, especially once you start moving some big flow numbers thru the ports for there amount of port area!

The Exh port guide needs to left in place for the most part , but shaped a certain way if your sticking with a stock size valve or only a tad bigger.

Removing the whole guide boss on the roof of the Exh bowl will effect the low lift flow negatively especially if a certain type of valve job is used.

[mag2555]

Sorry then end of that first sentence should have read, " but the size does".

[Kile Thompson]

Here is some more information on porting the E7TE
http://www.diyporting.com/E7p3.html