Don Terrill’s Speed-Talk

I can get it locally and am wondering if it might be a better choice than the Brad Penn 30 wt break-in oil on my shelf, considering it's a solid roller with 600# open spring loads.

Solid roller................start with what your gonna use, as soon as you get oil pressue and wait a bout 30 seconds put some load on it and vary up and down to face in rings if on dyno. If in car accelerate ad de-celerate in low gear for about 2 mins. Mark.

BradH wrote: ↑Sun Oct 15, 2017 11:01 am I can get it locally and am wondering if it might be a better choice than the Brad Penn 30 wt break-in oil on my shelf, considering it's a solid roller with 600# open spring loads.

Either one will work. I'm not sure how the Motul is formulated but what little I've used of Motul has been good.

I don't really think that you need any sort of special break in oil when you're running a roller cam.

Break in oils can make a HUGE difference on piston ring break in/leak down from what I have observed. I use Driven BR30 myself.

ZEOHSIX wrote: ↑Sun Oct 15, 2017 5:33 pm Break in oils can make a HUGE difference on piston ring break in/leak down from what I have observed. I use Driven BR30 myself.

Yes break in oils do make a big difference.

what you start your engine on does make a difference. Break in oil does help the rings seat but also helps the roller bearings burnish in. I start on 10 x 40 BR Gibbs. Just pick a good break in oil and go. If you want more info, read intervue with Lake Speed Jr
reed

statsystems wrote: ↑Sun Oct 15, 2017 5:52 pm

ZEOHSIX wrote: ↑Sun Oct 15, 2017 5:33 pm Break in oils can make a HUGE difference on piston ring break in/leak down from what I have observed. I use Driven BR30 myself.

Yes break in oils do make a big difference.

Very interesting, those are strong endorsements. I never took break-in oil seriously (aside the ZZDP for flat tappets), but I've never done any in depth study.

roc wrote: ↑Mon Oct 16, 2017 1:04 pm

statsystems wrote: ↑Sun Oct 15, 2017 5:52 pm

ZEOHSIX wrote: ↑Sun Oct 15, 2017 5:33 pm Break in oils can make a HUGE difference on piston ring break in/leak down from what I have observed. I use Driven BR30 myself.

Yes break in oils do make a big difference.

Very interesting, those are strong endorsements. I never took break-in oil seriously (aside the ZZDP for flat tappets), but I've never done any in depth study.

This sort of thing is difficult to study but I've tried. I have not had trouble with engines broken in using either a "break in" or a regular oil when the engine has a roller cam. As long as the cylinders are finished properly for the rings I'm not terribly convinced that its any big deal.

racear2865 wrote: ↑Sun Oct 15, 2017 6:04 pm what you start your engine on does make a difference. Break in oil does help the rings seat but also helps the roller bearings burnish in. I start on 10 x 40 BR Gibbs. Just pick a good break in oil and go. If you want more info, read intervue with Lake Speed Jr
reed

Would he be the best source of info considering he has a vested interest in the product?

We always ran the cheapest non detergent oil available with no issue and added GM EOS if it was flt tappet.

DaveMcLain wrote: ↑Mon Oct 16, 2017 4:54 pm

roc wrote: ↑Mon Oct 16, 2017 1:04 pm

statsystems wrote: ↑Sun Oct 15, 2017 5:52 pm

Yes break in oils do make a big difference.

Very interesting, those are strong endorsements. I never took break-in oil seriously (aside the ZZDP for flat tappets), but I've never done any in depth study.

This sort of thing is difficult to study but I've tried. I have not had trouble with engines broken in using either a "break in" or a regular oil when the engine has a roller cam. As long as the cylinders are finished properly for the rings I'm not terribly convinced that its any big deal.

That's my thinking too. But I also believe break-in oils won't fix improperly finished bores.

exhaustgases wrote: ↑Mon Oct 16, 2017 5:15 pm So I'm wondering, what brand and viscosity did Chevrolet break in the old 265's and 283's on back in 1955 to 1957? Lots and lots of flat tappets in those days.

With the very small exceptions aside, all SBC's before 1987 were flat tappets.

DaveMcLain wrote: ↑Mon Oct 16, 2017 4:54 pm

roc wrote: ↑Mon Oct 16, 2017 1:04 pm

statsystems wrote: ↑Sun Oct 15, 2017 5:52 pm

Yes break in oils do make a big difference.

Very interesting, those are strong endorsements. I never took break-in oil seriously (aside the ZZDP for flat tappets), but I've never done any in depth study.

This sort of thing is difficult to study but I've tried. I have not had trouble with engines broken in using either a "break in" or a regular oil when the engine has a roller cam. As long as the cylinders are finished properly for the rings I'm not terribly convinced that its any big deal.

I'll throw in the observation that a bunch of VOAs on various brands of break-in oils revealed that everybody seems to blend them differently, including HUGE variations in the amounts of comon anti-wear & detergent components. I don't know which brand(s) got it right and which ones are totally off in left field.
I

DaveMcLain wrote: ↑Mon Oct 16, 2017 4:54 pm

roc wrote: ↑Mon Oct 16, 2017 1:04 pm

statsystems wrote: ↑Sun Oct 15, 2017 5:52 pm

Yes break in oils do make a big difference.

Very interesting, those are strong endorsements. I never took break-in oil seriously (aside the ZZDP for flat tappets), but I've never done any in depth study.

This sort of thing is difficult to study but I've tried. I have not had trouble with engines broken in using either a "break in" or a regular oil when the engine has a roller cam. As long as the cylinders are finished properly for the rings I'm not terribly convinced that its any big deal.

I'll throw in the observation that a bunch of VOAs on various brands of break-in oils revealed that everybody seems to blend them differently, including HUGE variations in the amounts of comon anti-wear & detergent components. I don't know which brand(s) got it right and which ones are totally off in left field.
I

Dave i am in agreement with you, i want to expand on my first comment------if you have a bore that is ROUND and has the correct finish on it for the rings to be used with proper ring to groove clearance and end gap as well as correct piston to cylinder wall clearance and you put some load on the engine soon after starting-----------break in oil or (not) those rings will face in pretty quick. Mark