Re: ***Post Pics of what you are working on**
Posted: Thu Oct 12, 2017 8:53 pm
Cutting seat on a flat head
Home of Racing's Best and Brightest
https://www.speed-talk.com/forum/
did the center spin on the tubes? or did the perches break off?rfoll wrote: ↑Sat Oct 14, 2017 6:47 pm PICT0351.JPGPICT0352.JPGI haven't started working on this yet, but I need to somehow get it off the trailer. The pinion yoke is up against the floor board. The welds broke and the threads pulled on the CalTrac bar. It looks like the stock drive shaft is toast. I needed to upgrade these parts, looks like I waited too long.
Thats why I went to a pinion snubber and just used my Cal Tracks to adjust left and right as needed, they will still bend over time but you can catch it.rfoll wrote: ↑Sat Oct 14, 2017 6:47 pm PICT0351.JPGPICT0352.JPGI haven't started working on this yet, but I need to somehow get it off the trailer. The pinion yoke is up against the floor board. The welds broke and the threads pulled on the CalTrac bar. It looks like the stock drive shaft is toast. I needed to upgrade these parts, looks like I waited too long.
Yeah that would be scary, the rear on the car I posted in the vid had to have the rear replaced once in about 8 years due to distortion but the tubes were not welded to the center section beyond what was done from the factory. I have seen where guys will drill the cast center section and do more plug welds, some feel that trying to weld around them will cause a weak point...Consult a professional!rfoll wrote: ↑Sat Oct 14, 2017 10:05 pm The center spun on the tubes. There were only about 3 threads engaged on the front tube on the driver side. When you adjust the bars, you don't know how much thread engagement is there. It never occurred to me to check it, the equipment is designed for the application. I suspect I need 1" longer tubes. It felt like the mother of all launches, 50 degrees, dry air, and sea level barometer, until it broke 3 lengths out.
I wondered about welding the outer edge of the center, you share my concerns.GARY C wrote: ↑Sun Oct 15, 2017 12:19 amYeah that would be scary, the rear on the car I posted in the vid had to have the rear replaced once in about 8 years due to distortion but the tubes were not welded to the center section beyond what was done from the factory. I have seen where guys will drill the cast center section and do more plug welds, some feel that trying to weld around them will cause a weak point...Consult a professional!rfoll wrote: ↑Sat Oct 14, 2017 10:05 pm The center spun on the tubes. There were only about 3 threads engaged on the front tube on the driver side. When you adjust the bars, you don't know how much thread engagement is there. It never occurred to me to check it, the equipment is designed for the application. I suspect I need 1" longer tubes. It felt like the mother of all launches, 50 degrees, dry air, and sea level barometer, until it broke 3 lengths out.
Yes we will be running @ El Mirage next weekend
I like to drill and tap a large diameter cap screw through center into tubes. Basically pins the tubes in place.GARY C wrote: ↑Sun Oct 15, 2017 12:19 amYeah that would be scary, the rear on the car I posted in the vid had to have the rear replaced once in about 8 years due to distortion but the tubes were not welded to the center section beyond what was done from the factory. I have seen where guys will drill the cast center section and do more plug welds, some feel that trying to weld around them will cause a weak point...Consult a professional!rfoll wrote: ↑Sat Oct 14, 2017 10:05 pm The center spun on the tubes. There were only about 3 threads engaged on the front tube on the driver side. When you adjust the bars, you don't know how much thread engagement is there. It never occurred to me to check it, the equipment is designed for the application. I suspect I need 1" longer tubes. It felt like the mother of all launches, 50 degrees, dry air, and sea level barometer, until it broke 3 lengths out.