***Post Pics of what you are working on**

General engine tech -- Drag Racing to Circle Track

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hoodeng
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Re: ***Post Pics of what you are working on**

Post by hoodeng » Tue Oct 10, 2017 2:56 am

Just made a start on the silver one . Bought it in 83 ,did the big bore /cams/ big carbs thing ,and did a stack of miles on it .It ran like a pig around town ,but hit 3,000 and hang on!
I have respect for the elderly ,so now it's going all back to stock, it dosn't need to be fast, there's others in the garage for that!
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mag2555
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Re: ***Post Pics of what you are working on**

Post by mag2555 » Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:54 am

Gary how long have you had that cable driven Fordham grinder?
I have had mine for over 20 years and even with there HD handle when I use long course cut Burrs like that the bearings get pretty beat up after some 120 hours of use!
I have changed my bearings out many many times, in fact I now take new bearings pop the seal from one end , wash the as shipped lube out of them and pack them with high temp synthetic wheel bearing lube and it helps with bearing life!

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Re: ***Post Pics of what you are working on**

Post by mag2555 » Tue Oct 10, 2017 9:56 am

Spending about 3 hours testing out some 70 tubes for my good buddy in trade for a Texas road house dinner, or welding a Exh Manifold for me.
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4vpc
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Re: ***Post Pics of what you are working on**

Post by 4vpc » Wed Oct 11, 2017 4:11 am

GARY C wrote:
Mon Oct 09, 2017 1:22 am
PRH wrote:
Sun Oct 08, 2017 12:11 pm
Obviously, it's just a matter of what you're used to using..... But I can't imagine trying to port heads with a monster sized grinder like most of the electric ones are.

Mini air grinders for me.
Thats why I use a Foredom with a foot control and a cable operated hand piece. I like air but it's hard on the compressor.
It's hard on the electric bill too.

GARY C
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Re: ***Post Pics of what you are working on**

Post by GARY C » Wed Oct 11, 2017 4:23 am

4vpc wrote:
Wed Oct 11, 2017 4:11 am
GARY C wrote:
Mon Oct 09, 2017 1:22 am
PRH wrote:
Sun Oct 08, 2017 12:11 pm
Obviously, it's just a matter of what you're used to using..... But I can't imagine trying to port heads with a monster sized grinder like most of the electric ones are.

Mini air grinders for me.
Thats why I use a Foredom with a foot control and a cable operated hand piece. I like air but it's hard on the compressor.
It's hard on the electric bill too.
That's true! I never really thought about that, I worked for 20 years with a little Craftsman that had a plastic fan and if you ran it to long the fan would get hot, come loose and destroy itself and the shroud so I had to learn not to push it and that kind of forced me into electric tools as much as possible, now that I have a big compressor it has an easy life unless I am painting.

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Re: ***Post Pics of what you are working on**

Post by 4vpc » Wed Oct 11, 2017 4:34 am

GARY C wrote:
Wed Oct 11, 2017 4:23 am
4vpc wrote:
Wed Oct 11, 2017 4:11 am
GARY C wrote:
Mon Oct 09, 2017 1:22 am
Thats why I use a Foredom with a foot control and a cable operated hand piece. I like air but it's hard on the compressor.
It's hard on the electric bill too.
That's true! I never really thought about that, I worked for 20 years with a little Craftsman that had a plastic fan and if you ran it to long the fan would get hot, come loose and destroy itself and the shroud so I had to learn not to push it and that kind of forced me into electric tools as much as possible, now that I have a big compressor it has an easy life unless I am painting.
I did when I saw the electric meter spinning round with the compressor running :shock:
If you think about it it makes little sense to run a huge motor to create lots of noise and some compressed air to run another tool when you could go straight there with a much smaller motor.
I know there are pros and cons for both, but it tipped the balance for me.

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Re: ***Post Pics of what you are working on**

Post by GARY C » Wed Oct 11, 2017 4:57 am

mag2555 wrote:
Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:54 am
Gary how long have you had that cable driven Fordham grinder?
I have had mine for over 20 years and even with there HD handle when I use long course cut Burrs like that the bearings get pretty beat up after some 120 hours of use!
I have changed my bearings out many many times, in fact I now take new bearings pop the seal from one end , wash the as shipped lube out of them and pack them with high temp synthetic wheel bearing lube and it helps with bearing life!
I think I got in 98 or 99, I do everything I can reach with a short fat cutter and I don't do any iron, when I use the long bit 90% of the time I am supporting the shaft with my fingers so the full leverage is not on the hand piece almost like if you were drawing with a pencil.

BTW I like the old electronics hobby you have their, I wish I knew more about that as my old Pioneer shop receiver is trying to die on me, it actually came on just now when I took this picture but it will pop and stop after it play a while, everything still lights up just no sound and I hate the thought of the newer stuff.
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GARY C
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Re: ***Post Pics of what you are working on**

Post by GARY C » Wed Oct 11, 2017 5:03 am

4vpc wrote:
Wed Oct 11, 2017 4:34 am
GARY C wrote:
Wed Oct 11, 2017 4:23 am
4vpc wrote:
Wed Oct 11, 2017 4:11 am


It's hard on the electric bill too.
That's true! I never really thought about that, I worked for 20 years with a little Craftsman that had a plastic fan and if you ran it to long the fan would get hot, come loose and destroy itself and the shroud so I had to learn not to push it and that kind of forced me into electric tools as much as possible, now that I have a big compressor it has an easy life unless I am painting.
I did when I saw the electric meter spinning round with the compressor running :shock:
If you think about it it makes little sense to run a huge motor to create lots of noise and some compressed air to run another tool when you could go straight there with a much smaller motor.
I know there are pros and cons for both, but it tipped the balance for me.
Yeah this was my shop back in the day you can see the compressor and it still sits there today 20 years later and still works but the contacts are bad and will stick on sometimes so I bought a 60 gallon stand up 220 volt but the lights in my shed would almost go out for a second when it kicked on.
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mag2555
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Re: ***Post Pics of what you are working on**

Post by mag2555 » Wed Oct 11, 2017 6:52 am

Gary all old amps be they tube type or solid state like your receiver will need all of its electrolytic type caps changed out some day , and that day has come!
These type caps are the only part of any part of electronic gear that live a longer life when the gear is on and in use then off and sitting there!
You might be lucky and just have a dirty somewhat corroded selector switch so sitting the receiver on its rear and spraying some WD-40 into the switch face while moving it thru its positions fast my solve the problem.
Also if you turn the volume and balance control does the sound cut in and out, if so then those control pots need to be cleaned and lubed up.

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Re: ***Post Pics of what you are working on**

Post by tresi » Wed Oct 11, 2017 12:52 pm

mag2555 wrote:
Tue Oct 10, 2017 9:56 am
Spending about 3 hours testing out some 70 tubes for my good buddy in trade for a Texas road house dinner, or welding a Exh Manifold for me.
It's been a minute or 2 since I seen one of those

mag2555
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Re: ***Post Pics of what you are working on**

Post by mag2555 » Wed Oct 11, 2017 1:03 pm

They don't make em like the use to!
That tube tester was made in 55 , the rear I was born, lol!

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Re: ***Post Pics of what you are working on**

Post by GARY C » Wed Oct 11, 2017 1:06 pm

mag2555 wrote:
Wed Oct 11, 2017 6:52 am
Gary all old amps be they tube type or solid state like your receiver will need all of its electrolytic type caps changed out some day , and that day has come!
These type caps are the only part of any part of electronic gear that live a longer life when the gear is on and in use then off and sitting there!
You might be lucky and just have a dirty somewhat corroded selector switch so sitting the receiver on its rear and spraying some WD-40 into the switch face while moving it thru its positions fast my solve the problem.
Also if you turn the volume and balance control does the sound cut in and out, if so then those control pots need to be cleaned and lubed up.
Yes on the volume knob, I will probably try taking off the cover and blow it out and see if I can lube the switches, it has been in the shop since 2006 so there is no telling what is in it, dirt dobbers are bad here in the woods of Tx.

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Re: ***Post Pics of what you are working on**

Post by mag2555 » Wed Oct 11, 2017 1:48 pm

Gary this is what a basic control pot looks like and you need to get lube in that black open slot below the 3 terminals as just blowing air into it may not help at all, also some pots may be mounted like this shot of one on a circuit board which makes it very hard to get lube into them without unsoldering it .
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joe 90
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Re: ***Post Pics of what you are working on**

Post by joe 90 » Wed Oct 11, 2017 5:28 pm

Never use WD40 or any sort of lube on pots.
Use "contact cleaner".
WD40 makes them go noisy. It's an insulator.

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Re: ***Post Pics of what you are working on**

Post by GARY C » Wed Oct 11, 2017 6:12 pm

Thanks for the info joe and magg, I will look at getting a cleaner but I am kinda bummed to find out that there is actually something that WD40 is not the best product for. :)

Worst case I will just move my home stereo to the shop and get a new one for my house, I have been looking for a good reason to upgrade the home system so this may be it. plus I would have dvd so then I could justify moving my tv out there and upgrading it as well. :idea:

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