I have welded many tubes to the center sections, I either use nirod with the flux removed then glass beaded and tig weld or ni-99 and tig weld as well. Keep the heat within reason not to create porosity with the casting and drawing out lube from housing /tube slip fit.The rear has to be straightened afterwards with a correct fixture.rfoll wrote: ↑Sun Oct 15, 2017 11:11 amI wondered about welding the outer edge of the center, you share my concerns.GARY C wrote: ↑Sun Oct 15, 2017 12:19 amYeah that would be scary, the rear on the car I posted in the vid had to have the rear replaced once in about 8 years due to distortion but the tubes were not welded to the center section beyond what was done from the factory. I have seen where guys will drill the cast center section and do more plug welds, some feel that trying to weld around them will cause a weak point...Consult a professional!rfoll wrote: ↑Sat Oct 14, 2017 10:05 pmThe center spun on the tubes. There were only about 3 threads engaged on the front tube on the driver side. When you adjust the bars, you don't know how much thread engagement is there. It never occurred to me to check it, the equipment is designed for the application. I suspect I need 1" longer tubes. It felt like the mother of all launches, 50 degrees, dry air, and sea level barometer, until it broke 3 lengths out.
Never had a failure after, usually another weak link shows its head,most commonly the tubes bend and the rear takes a banana shape.