Resizing rods with new bolts

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Truckedup
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Resizing rods with new bolts

Post by Truckedup »

If you were changing rods bolts from OEM to ARP, would you also resize the rods at the same time? I've been told by several shops to always do that...I have done it but is it really necessary ?
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Re: Resizing rods with new bolts

Post by GOSFAST »

Truckedup wrote:If you were changing rods bolts from OEM to ARP, would you also resize the rods at the same time? I've been told by several shops to always do that...I have done it but is it really necessary ?
It is "mandatory" on (OEM) rods to resize with nut/bolt changes! We also check the press-fit on the bolt holes, most end up getting reamed before installing the new bolts.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. We do find it less "mandatory" (align-honing) with main cap fastener replacements!
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pamotorman
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Re: Resizing rods with new bolts

Post by pamotorman »

I changed them one at a time using a tight fitting mandrel in the bore with no problems.
tresi
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Re: Resizing rods with new bolts

Post by tresi »

If you pull the big end out of round you would have been better off to leave the stock bolts in.
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Re: Resizing rods with new bolts

Post by ProPower engines »

Truckedup wrote:If you were changing rods bolts from OEM to ARP, would you also resize the rods at the same time? I've been told by several shops to always do that...I have done it but is it really necessary ?
Yes absolutely a must do.
While some guys say they do it this way or that way and do not resize the rods just got lucky.
years ago there was a recall on some fore engines and the rod bolts that were subbed caused more issues that were to be cured.
regardless the knurled end or the the part that aligns up the 2 rod halves will be different between ARP and a stock bolt.
the pro series ARP bolts have a much larger raised portion then any stock bolt ever did. Even the standard ARP bolts have a larger alignment portion then stock bolts do.

Do yourself a favor and resize the rods and save the possible destruction of an otherwise good engine
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pamotorman
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Re: Resizing rods with new bolts

Post by pamotorman »

I always used bolts without knurled shank as a replacement as they were a light push fit.
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cjperformance
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Re: Resizing rods with new bolts

Post by cjperformance »

Some guys put the rod out of round just by knocking out the old rod bolt !!! #-o
Resize them , plain and simple.
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Re: Resizing rods with new bolts

Post by modok »

It does not matter if the bolts are changed or not, if you will be putting them in an engine they need to be checked.
Big end, small end, length and twist.
If you lack the tools and ability to check it then find somebody to do it for you.
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Re: Resizing rods with new bolts

Post by digger »

I know with one particular import engine there were issues with premature wear of rod bearings. People seemed to think it was a great idea to change the rod bolts to arp at the same time they were swapping out the shells with a totally different tightening methodology all while the sump was off engine still in the car.There was no failure of OEM bolts but I never thought it was a great idea to change the bolts when the design of the big end was never well specced anyway. One of the advantages of arp was they were reusable and easier sequence for tightening.....
strokersix
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Re: Resizing rods with new bolts

Post by strokersix »

Modok has it right. What matters is the final result, not how you get there.
jake197000
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Re: Resizing rods with new bolts

Post by jake197000 »

some locals here take junk yard ls engines put 1 or 2 turbos on them replace the rod bolts on the stock rods and they seem to work ok its nothing i would do.
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Re: Resizing rods with new bolts

Post by jeff swisher »

The fail point on the factory GM large journal SBC rods for me was never in the bolt. The bolt always held tight. The rod would usually bent.. but only when It hydrauliced or the piston smacked the head.

The LS fail point with the Turbo/Turbos has not been the rod bolt from what I have seen it has been the pin pulls through the piston.
The 4.8 can take 24 PSI many times and survive. Without ever pulling the pan or pulling the heads, this is also with original head bolts.
My buddy huffed one to 29 PSI and it survived.. accident it was .. and made just under 1000 HP to the wheels.
Fun stuff.

I can sling a hypereutectic piston off a stock GM 1970 era SBC rod and bent the rod all to crap and lock the engine up tight and the bolts hold fine.
I tighten mine by stretch.
45 torque does not get me there either. Closer to 52
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Re: Resizing rods with new bolts

Post by jake197000 »

haven't done much with ls engines I do mostly old stuff.those ls enginges sure seem tough.
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Re: Resizing rods with new bolts

Post by pamotorman »

I have seen guys change rod bolts with the race engine still in the car and had no problems.
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