hi guys,
i had to consider if i was going to do this part 2 deal because i dont like bad mouthing anyone or any manufacture of automotive products
but i do believe what happened to my cooling system could of led to a major engine failure.
at the beginning of the year i built the 383 junker engine that had the dreaded sleeve fitted and i fitted keyserts in 2 of the head bolt holes
i decided to use a nulon head gasket repair in a bottle to seal around the keyserts,it contains kevlar fibre in a liquid form
the instructions say to add the bottle and no need to drain cooling system.
just to be clear this was new build so the block was hot tanked and was clean,new aluminum radiator and waterpump,new hoses etc
pretty well straight away after everytime i drove the car it always had rubber powder under the radiator cap so i figured the water pump seal was failing straight way,in my other post the waterpump was very clean with no crap through it,the radiator was blocked up with these fibres material which i will say is like wet fibro strands that does not break down,the photos i put up will paint the picture and i am recommending nobody use this product at all,i will stick to chemeweld if i need to add a product to help seal anything up,
the car is back together now and i will be road testing every night this week as i am going to the track on saturday to race the last points series for the year and i have the 4 hr return trip so fingers crossed we make it home.
comments welcome
steve c
waterpump failure part 2
Moderator: Team
-
steve cowan
- Guru
- Posts: 2277
- Joined: Wed Jul 27, 2011 5:22 am
- Location: brisbane AUSTRALIA
waterpump failure part 2
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
steve c
"Pretty don't make power"
"Pretty don't make power"
-
engineguyBill
- Guru
- Posts: 1264
- Joined: Fri Feb 26, 2010 11:15 am
- Location: Gold Canyon, AZ
Re: waterpump failure part 2
hhhhmmmmm, head gasket repair in a bottle . . . . . . . . Looks like it was more like cooling system destroyer in a bottle . . . . . . . . The quickie fix snake oil never works, you gotta fix things mechanically if you expect your stuff to survive.
Bill
Perfect Circle Doctor of Motors certification
SAE Member (30 years)
ASE Master Certified Engine Machinist (+ two otherASE Master Certifications)
AERA Certified Professional Engine Machinist
Perfect Circle Doctor of Motors certification
SAE Member (30 years)
ASE Master Certified Engine Machinist (+ two otherASE Master Certifications)
AERA Certified Professional Engine Machinist
-
midnightbluS10
- Expert
- Posts: 933
- Joined: Sun Oct 20, 2013 8:41 am
- Location: Shreveport, LA
Re: waterpump failure part 2
The only thing I've ever seen work is the Blue Devil headgasket in a bottle. When I got out of the shop as a tech and was manager at the parts store, we sold quite a bit of it and no one ever came back to complain. They even offer a double money back guarantee, iirc.
At any rate, you're only asking for problems with your cooling system when using any of that stuff. Being that it's made to fix leaks, it's quite obvious it will probably "fix" leaks that don't need fixing, like the openings of the tubes in the radiator and heater core, just like you posted.
At any rate, you're only asking for problems with your cooling system when using any of that stuff. Being that it's made to fix leaks, it's quite obvious it will probably "fix" leaks that don't need fixing, like the openings of the tubes in the radiator and heater core, just like you posted.
JC -
bigjoe1 wrote:By the way, I had a long talk with Harold(Brookshire) last year at the PRI show. We met at the airport and he told me everything he knew about everything.It was a nice visit. JOE SHERMAN RACING
Re: waterpump failure part 2
A quart of, water glass, (aka, sodium silicate), bought from a Drug Store works for me!
Just make sure that your complete anti-freeze contact system is CLEAN because the stuff will react with anti-freeze and make, ("gummed-up", mess.
Clean the complete cooling system and then pour in the water-glass, then put a big piece of cardboard in front of the rad. and drive her until she steams/burps, etc., to get her good and hot!
Shut her off and let her cool over night and the next morning, check her for leaks, aka, bubbles), in the rad. No leaks/bubbles, flush out CLEAN and then fill with your needed water/anti-freeze mixture and go. Bubbles, repeat the 1st part...
Been there, done that!!
pdq67
Just make sure that your complete anti-freeze contact system is CLEAN because the stuff will react with anti-freeze and make, ("gummed-up", mess.
Clean the complete cooling system and then pour in the water-glass, then put a big piece of cardboard in front of the rad. and drive her until she steams/burps, etc., to get her good and hot!
Shut her off and let her cool over night and the next morning, check her for leaks, aka, bubbles), in the rad. No leaks/bubbles, flush out CLEAN and then fill with your needed water/anti-freeze mixture and go. Bubbles, repeat the 1st part...
Been there, done that!!
pdq67
Re: waterpump failure part 2
PDQ's fix was used regularly by Chrysler Corp's Skunk Works on their 'experimental' cast-magnesium dragrace intakes etc during the '60s. Gravity- cast mag is about as close to high-tech honeycomb as most of us will ever see, and $2 drugstore bottles of Sodium Silicate (water glass, egg preservative, etc) worked well in sealing the pieces up. Vital trick: the stuff is soluble in COLD water but kicks out of solution when warmed to maybe 150F, forming a glass-like layer on whatever its touching. I've fixed leaky hot-water heaters with a couple of pints of the stuff.