Iron Eagle Heads

[Darbikrash]

I could use some help setting up the cylinder heads for my 406 SBC. Dart SHP block, 3.75” stroke, 4.155 Mahle 16 cc dished pistons with a Lunati Voodoo 219/227 hyd roller cam. Zero decked. Lift at the valve is .515/.530 using 1.5 rockers. C/R is 10.4:1

Heads are Dart Iron Eagle 180 ports w/64 CC chambers. Heads are bare. Looking for some advice on component selection and perhaps some light porting. I have exactly zero porting experience. Should I expect to have to redo the seats to get good concentricity?

First step is the valves, I’m looking at Howards “Extreme Black” as they seem OK for price at around $18 each. I ordered a couple to mock up, they show an installed height of 1.740 using 10 deg locks and retainers. I see there are a lot of low price springs, such as Manly, much cheaper but I have no experience with them. The Ferrara 6000 valves are more expensive then the Howards, I think too costly for my build. Suggestions?

For springs, the Lunati catalog recommendations seem too light at around 110# seat pressure, I’m thinking I need to be around 150#. I’m looking at an updated Lunati beehive 1.290 OD spring (the head will take a 1.440 OD), but the installed heights seem too close with only around .040 over coil bind at max lift. I can order the Howards valves +.100 length @ 5.011 lg., which seems like things work out much better, but at the cost of a heavier valve. What is a reasonable seat and open pressure for this cam?

Also looking at the Isky 235D spring, a low cost spring with around 130#’s seat pressure.

Is it necessary to use a spring cup locator for an iron head?

Note I am using the stock GM roller lifters with spider and custom pushrods. Rockers are not purchased yet but I’m thinking Comp Roller Magnums or maybe the PRW stainless rollers. Not a fan of aluminum for high fatigue applications.

It’s a mild engine, will never see over 6000 rpm, but I do not want to throw money at the valve train, these are just cheap $750 cylinder heads. I’d rather spend some time setting these up properly myself than spend $2000 on AFR aluminum heads.

What about porting, any work a novice porter could do with these heads or leave them as cast?

[ProPower engines]

I could use some help setting up the cylinder heads for my 406 SBC. Dart SHP block, 3.75” stroke, 4.155 Mahle 16 cc dished pistons with a Lunati Voodoo 219/227 hyd roller cam. Zero decked. Lift at the valve is .515/.530 using 1.5 rockers. C/R is 10.4:1

Heads are Dart Iron Eagle 180 ports w/64 CC chambers. Heads are bare. Looking for some advice on component selection and perhaps some light porting. I have exactly zero porting experience. Should I expect to have to redo the seats to get good concentricity?

First step is the valves, I’m looking at Howards “Extreme Black” as they seem OK for price at around $18 each. I ordered a couple to mock up, they show an installed height of 1.740 using 10 deg locks and retainers. I see there are a lot of low price springs, such as Manly, much cheaper but I have no experience with them. The Ferrara 6000 valves are more expensive then the Howards, I think too costly for my build. Suggestions?

For springs, the Lunati catalog recommendations seem too light at around 110# seat pressure, I’m thinking I need to be around 150#. I’m looking at an updated Lunati beehive 1.290 OD spring (the head will take a 1.440 OD), but the installed heights seem too close with only around .040 over coil bind at max lift. I can order the Howards valves +.100 length @ 5.011 lg., which seems like things work out much better, but at the cost of a heavier valve. What is a reasonable seat and open pressure for this cam?

Also looking at the Isky 235D spring, a low cost spring with around 130#’s seat pressure.

Is it necessary to use a spring cup locator for an iron head?

Note I am using the stock GM roller lifters with spider and custom pushrods. Rockers are not purchased yet but I’m thinking Comp Roller Magnums or maybe the PRW stainless rollers. Not a fan of aluminum for high fatigue applications.

It’s a mild engine, will never see over 6000 rpm, but I do not want to throw money at the valve train, these are just cheap $750 cylinder heads. I’d rather spend some time setting these up properly myself than spend $2000 on AFR aluminum heads.

What about porting, any work a novice porter could do with these heads or leave them as cast?

I use lots of these heads but they do need some work.
Guides will be needing to be done and touch up the seats as most valves are about .3413 to .342 so clearance will vary alot and be too much.
I shoot for a max of .0012" on the intakes and .0015 for the exhaust for street stuff with positive seals.
And that myth of AFR heads not needing anything is BS I have a new set out of the box and you can see day light under the seats and valves but customer got a good deal from AFR.LOL ha ha
He was not impressed either.

The rockers from PRW are decent entry level stuff and have used lots in the last 5 years with no issues.
Be sure to drill the push rod holes to 1/2" as well to be safe on push rod clearance.
Manley makes some of the best valves going but if cost is an issue SI in California has some good stuff.
the 235D spring will give up with a roller I would use either a double spring with damper or use the Isky 295D installed at 1.800.
You should use an ID locator and not rely on the head to locate the spring as they will eat into the spring seat area of the head.
They are cheap at about $25-$40 depending on brand name.

Are you saying OEM GM roller lifters?? Like used in the 604 crate engine?? They will be fine but the generic roller lifters may not handle the spring pressures you are looking for without bleeding off. the Johnson Hy-lift stuff may not be a good option for increased spring pressures. Been there

[mag2555]

You need to set up for 6500 if your gonna tickle 6000 repetedly without valve Float.

[Carnut1]

X2, Seems any set of cylinder heads need guides and seats touched up to be correct. High volume production usually equals not the best clearances or concentricity.

[user-612937456]

"Note I am using the stock GM roller lifters with spider"

Are you saying OEM GM roller lifters?? Like used in the 604 crate engine?? They will be fine but the generic roller lifters may not handle the spring pressures you are looking for without bleeding off. the Johnson Hy-lift stuff may not be a good option for increased spring pressures. Been there

I did a couple builds using GM's replacement LS7 roller lifters at the recommendation of Mike Jones, really good high-quality roller lifter at an economical price I haven't got the part number with me I got it wrote down at the shop but they're like $151 for a set of 16. Both engines were over 6500 rpm engines to. (My builds were both using springs 130 # seat prrssures and .535/ 540 lift)

Additionally for the Porting Part it would behove you to attend Dave Vizards seminar. Its a 3 day seminar packed with information about putting air flow theory and hands on and other aspects 'of exactly what you're doing right now. Consider if you make a $500 mistake you learn one lesson from that. You go to David seminar you'll be light years ahead of where you're at now.

[Darbikrash]

Thanks for the replies and suggestions. I took the advice for SI Valves in CA, and they shipped me some nice looking valves from their Silver series race line for $10.50 each. They arrived next day and they look great.

I'm taking the heads over to the shop today for concentricity and valve to guide clearance inspection, will see what next steps are based on the results of the measurements. Dart says their QC is <=.002 seat to guide TIR. The guide ID's are ball broached to size, so I expect we'll have to re-size or replace these to get a honed finish at the correct clearances.

I'll update what we find.

[GOSFAST]

I could use some help setting up the cylinder heads for my 406 SBC. Dart SHP block, 3.75” stroke, 4.155 Mahle 16 cc dished pistons with a Lunati Voodoo 219/227 hyd roller cam. Zero decked. Lift at the valve is .515/.530 using 1.5 rockers. C/R is 10.4:1

Heads are Dart Iron Eagle 180 ports w/64 CC chambers. Heads are bare. Looking for some advice on component selection and perhaps some light porting. I have exactly zero porting experience. Should I expect to have to redo the seats to get good concentricity?

First step is the valves, I’m looking at Howards “Extreme Black” as they seem OK for price at around $18 each. I ordered a couple to mock up, they show an installed height of 1.740 using 10 deg locks and retainers. I see there are a lot of low price springs, such as Manly, much cheaper but I have no experience with them. The Ferrara 6000 valves are more expensive then the Howards, I think too costly for my build. Suggestions?

For springs, the Lunati catalog recommendations seem too light at around 110# seat pressure, I’m thinking I need to be around 150#. I’m looking at an updated Lunati beehive 1.290 OD spring (the head will take a 1.440 OD), but the installed heights seem too close with only around .040 over coil bind at max lift. I can order the Howards valves +.100 length @ 5.011 lg., which seems like things work out much better, but at the cost of a heavier valve. What is a reasonable seat and open pressure for this cam?

Also looking at the Isky 235D spring, a low cost spring with around 130#’s seat pressure.

Is it necessary to use a spring cup locator for an iron head?

Note I am using the stock GM roller lifters with spider and custom pushrods. Rockers are not purchased yet but I’m thinking Comp Roller Magnums or maybe the PRW stainless rollers. Not a fan of aluminum for high fatigue applications.

It’s a mild engine, will never see over 6000 rpm, but I do not want to throw money at the valve train, these are just cheap $750 cylinder heads. I’d rather spend some time setting these up properly myself than spend $2000 on AFR aluminum heads.

What about porting, any work a novice porter could do with these heads or leave them as cast?

I would make certain those "Shin-Ichi" valves have some hardened tips on them, been down that road some 20+ years ago??

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. For close to the same price you could have gotten some decent Ferrea's, no comparison quality-wise. We use Ferrea's whenever we can!