Dead stick timing HEI ignition in a GM product.

one finger john · Post by **one finger john** » Fri May 19, 2017 3:11 pm

Please explain the procedure to time a HEI distributor with the engine not running, no. 1 TDC firing. I believe it is called "dead stick timing" ?

Thanks in advance, John

psychomotors · Post by **psychomotors** » Fri May 19, 2017 3:26 pm

Never heard of that but my method is to put the line of the balancer at the 10 -12 mark on the tab. With the cap off the distributor , drop it into the engine with the rotor pointing at #1.Put the cap on and take a marker and mark on the body where the terminal is on the cap. Take the cap off and align the rotor to the mark and tighten the dist hold down clamp. Re-install cap, wires ,etc and if all the rest is ready to go, it should start. Has always worked for me.

pamotorman · Post by **pamotorman** » Fri May 19, 2017 3:30 pm

mark the dist housing at #1 cylinder. set the engine at 10 degrees before TDC compression stroke. install dist and rotate the housing to line up the rotor tip and the #1 mark you put on the housing. snug down the dist.

ZEOHSIX · Post by **ZEOHSIX** » Fri May 19, 2017 3:31 pm

When the reluctor teeth and pick up coil align.....the spark signal is generated.....so.....motor @ TDC on firing of #1 cylinder and lining up rotor/cap to #1 pole.....then reluctor in line with pick up coil in distributor.....myself....I always make sure the ignition system functions by testing distributor/coil assembly before I try to light off a new bullet. Power up ignition system, distributor out of motor....spin the distributor and make sure you have spark at coil lead....fill carb float bowls or prime EFI system.....make sure accelerator pump shoots....then light the bullet off.

Post by **Schurkey** » Sat May 20, 2017 7:23 pm

psychomotors wrote:my method is to put the line of the balancer at the 10 -12 mark on the tab. With the cap off the distributor , drop it into the engine with the rotor pointing at #1.Put the cap on and take a marker and mark on the body where the terminal is on the cap. Take the cap off and align the rotor to the mark and tighten the dist hold down clamp. Re-install cap, wires ,etc and if all the rest is ready to go, it should start. Has always worked for me.

ZEOHSIX wrote:When the reluctor teeth and pick up coil align.....the spark signal is generated.....so.....motor @ TDC on firing of #1 cylinder and lining up rotor/cap to #1 pole.....then reluctor in line with pick up coil in distributor

Let's pick the best parts of these two posts:

When the reluctor teeth and pick up coil align.....the spark signal is generated.....so put the line of the balancer at the 10 -12 mark on the tab. With the cap off the distributor , drop it into the engine with the rotor pointing at #1. Then [turn the distributor housing to position the] reluctor in line with pick up coil in distributor. [The alignment can sometimes be "felt" because of the magnetic attraction. Tighten distributor without disturbing reluctor/pickup coil alignment. Fire the engine, final-set timing with a light per usual practice.]

I've called this "static timing" an engine.

one finger john · Post by **one finger john** » Sat May 20, 2017 8:47 pm

"Dead stick" was the term that was used back in the 60s to describe how to time the engine without it running. That would be with points, remember them ?
Anyway, bring the timing mark up to 12* BTDC, install the distributor so that the rotor is just about pointing towards the no.1 terminal with the points closed. Turn on the ignition, remove cap, slowly advance the distributor until you hear or see a flash from the points opening and there you have it. Dead stick timed at 12* BTDC. Tighten the hold down bolt and you are off.

Ever hear of using a match book cover to set the ignition points. You can. Match book covers were always .016 of an inch which was the opening for the ignition points.

psychomotors · Post by **psychomotors** » Sat May 20, 2017 9:14 pm

Schurkey wrote:
psychomotors wrote:my method is to put the line of the balancer at the 10 -12 mark on the tab. With the cap off the distributor , drop it into the engine with the rotor pointing at #1.Put the cap on and take a marker and mark on the body where the terminal is on the cap. Take the cap off and align the rotor to the mark and tighten the dist hold down clamp. Re-install cap, wires ,etc and if all the rest is ready to go, it should start. Has always worked for me.

ZEOHSIX wrote:When the reluctor teeth and pick up coil align.....the spark signal is generated.....so.....motor @ TDC on firing of #1 cylinder and lining up rotor/cap to #1 pole.....then reluctor in line with pick up coil in distributor
Let's pick the best parts of these two posts:

When the reluctor teeth and pick up coil align.....the spark signal is generated.....so put the line of the balancer at the 10 -12 mark on the tab. With the cap off the distributor , drop it into the engine with the rotor pointing at #1. Then [turn the distributor housing to position the] reluctor in line with pick up coil in distributor. [The alignment can sometimes be "felt" because of the magnetic attraction. Tighten distributor without disturbing reluctor/pickup coil alignment. Fire the engine, final-set timing with a light per usual practice.]

I've called this "static timing" an engine.

Which is the fancy smancy way of saying what I already said ,lol.

psychomotors · Post by **psychomotors** » Sat May 20, 2017 9:16 pm

one finger john wrote:"Dead stick" was the term that was used back in the 60s to describe how to time the engine without it running. That would be with points, remember them ?
Anyway, bring the timing mark up to 12* BTDC, install the distributor so that the rotor is just about pointing towards the no.1 terminal with the points closed. Turn on the ignition, remove cap, slowly advance the distributor until you hear or see a flash from the points opening and there you have it. Dead stick timed at 12* BTDC. Tighten the hold down bolt and you are off.

Ever hear of using a match book cover to set the ignition points. You can. Match book covers were always .016 of an inch which was the opening for the ignition points.

Back when every one and there brother had free match books to give away with their business names printed on them. The good old days .

MadBill · Post by **MadBill** » Sat May 20, 2017 9:42 pm

Reading this, I just realized I haven't seen my dwell meter in 25 years! Haven't a clue where it went...

psychomotors · Post by **psychomotors** » Sat May 20, 2017 9:47 pm

MadBill wrote:Reading this, I just realized I haven't seen my dwell meter in 25 years! Haven't a clue where it went...

Would you like to borrow mine,lol?

MadBill · Post by **MadBill** » Sat May 20, 2017 9:50 pm

That would be pointless...

psychomotors · Post by **psychomotors** » Sat May 20, 2017 9:58 pm

MadBill wrote:That would be pointless...

pamotorman · Post by **pamotorman** » Sat May 20, 2017 11:16 pm

I used a "buzzer" box that stopped buzzing when the points opened. some people used a piece of cellophane from a cig pack between the points and used a steady pull on it till the points opened and the cellophane came lose. remember I am 83 years old today so things were different back when I was starting to play with engines

Post by **In-Tech** » Tue May 23, 2017 3:04 am

pamotorman wrote:I used a "buzzer" box that stopped buzzing when the points opened. some people used a piece of cellophane from a cig pack between the points and used a steady pull on it till the points opened and the cellophane came lose. remember I am 83 years old today so things were different back when I was starting to play with engines

83??? A buzz box is just a fancy ohm meter for the blind. Shouldn't you be in bed by now?

Hey, I still like reading your posts, and happy birthday.

one finger john · Post by **one finger john** » Tue May 23, 2017 8:54 am

Happy BirthDay, but I wouldn't dwell on it too long.

Don Terrill’s Speed-Talk

Dead stick timing HEI ignition in a GM product.

Dead stick timing HEI ignition in a GM product.

Re: Dead stick timing HEI ignition in a GM product.

Re: Dead stick timing HEI ignition in a GM product.

Re: Dead stick timing HEI ignition in a GM product.

Re: Dead stick timing HEI ignition in a GM product.

Re: Dead stick timing HEI ignition in a GM product.

Re: Dead stick timing HEI ignition in a GM product.

Re: Dead stick timing HEI ignition in a GM product.

Re: Dead stick timing HEI ignition in a GM product.

Re: Dead stick timing HEI ignition in a GM product.

Re: Dead stick timing HEI ignition in a GM product.

Re: Dead stick timing HEI ignition in a GM product.

Re: Dead stick timing HEI ignition in a GM product.

Re: Dead stick timing HEI ignition in a GM product.

Re: Dead stick timing HEI ignition in a GM product.