My 383's crappy dyno results...

[Crews69]

First of all I'd like to say hi and I am new to this forum
My buddy rfoll posted up on here earlier about my disappointing dyno results. He had a few of the specs slightly off so I will attach the current build list. It's not that I am extremely unhappy but I figured it would make more power than my wife Altima haha. Ultimately I plan on building an LS based engine. Maybe an LS3 or 7. Or possibly an LQ9 iron block. This stroker motor was supposed to be a cheap 3k motor ready to go for now. After the bay purchase I discovered that it had a shit bottom end and bare casting AFR 210 heads. The bracket master cam was already in the engine. And the head gaskets were wrong. Soooo I had to rebuild the bottom end and with rfoll's help I ported and port matched the heads.
Ultimately the motor runs strong, snappy, no misses or stumbles, and burns nicely on the plugs. i just was hoping for more out of the money I have spent. If I do anything to improve the current build it can't cost much. Its just wasted money. Rfoll suggested I swap out the flex fan to a clutch fan, and delete the 1/2" spacer between the carb and manifold. I certainly don't want to have to dyno it over again.

1969 Camaro SS X-11
Vehicle weight 3400lbs
383 stroker approx 2k miles on build using Amsoil 10w30 prod high zinc
Block #14093638 1986-94 350
C053 on drivers side bell
5.7LG SGI on drivers bell
638 sides of block
14093638 Small Block V8 1987-1995 350, 4 bolt, roller or flat tappet cam, 1-piece rear seal
4.030 bore approximately 10.5.1 compression. Maybe less... block has not been decked Gauge says 190-200 on all cylinders
Scat forged 5.7” shot peened rods w/7/16” ARP bolts
1pc rms 5/64-5.7
Scat forged crank
Wiseco flat top forged pistons
fully balanced assembly with Scat flex plate and balancer included in balancing
hastings rings gapped at .018 lower .021 upper
King bearings checked and sized correctly
ARP main bolts
S/A Gear adjustable full roller timing set advanced 4 degrees which brings center line of lobe to 104.5 Calls for 104 but this is the closest i could get it which brought (in opens BTDC to 17) not the recommended 19.

Lunati cam
00012 BM-II Hydraulic Flat tappet
RPM range 2500-6500
Lobe separation 108
rocker ratio 1.5
515 515 lift
246 246 duration
300 300 advertised

AFR Heads
210cc
67cc chambers Heart shaped
Stamped on end of heads
J 02
TYu
S 6
Stamped in valve train
.341 intake stem, 160r-c-wh
.341 exhaust stem, 1756-40100-208
Comp pro magnum roller rockers 1.5
Pro comp 7.8” pushrods
Viton stem seals
Currently using autolite 3923
Oil filter wix 51069 or Amsoil eao59
Or Napa 21060


Quick Fuel 735 SS approx 8" of vacuum at 900rpm air bleeds drilled and carb tuned by FBO And retuned by fast specialties using a chassis dyno. 4.0 powervalve.

Holley blue pump with regulator mounted just below the half full line on outside of fuel tank. connected to a dual sending unit which i installed. 3/8” line for feed up to holley regulator which is mounted on front inner fender set to 6psi. 1/4” return line back to sending unit. Relay used for constant power to pump. Still need low oil pressure power cutoff.

Edelbrock RPM air gap manifold dual plain

Edelbrock 8811 high volume water pump

Lokar throttle cable and kick down cable assembly w/pedal assembly

TCI super street fighter transmission w/B&M 2400 stall
Hughes deep cast pan using Amsoil ATF
1st 2.48:1
2nd 1.48:1
3rd 1.00:1
Rev 2.07:1

10 bolt posi rearend 373 gearing.

MSD 6AL box w/pro billet distributor p/n8361 one blue one silver springs and silver bushings. 7k RPM rev chip
Initial set at 22 w/VA comes to 30 at idle
Msd 8.5 wires
Tuned by FBO RETUNED by Fast specialties 18 initial and 33 all in with vac adv unplugged and capped

Dougs Headers 1 3/4” primary 3" collector p/n d368
Full dual stainless 2 1/2" exhaust with X pipe and magnaflow mufflers

American auto wire 21 circuit classic update wiring harness with all LED lighting throughout vehicle.

New Energy black body bushings and Motor mounts

New power master starter good for 15.1 compression

Full aftermarket autometer ultra lite gauge cluster and bezel
speed,rpm,water temp,volts,oil pressure,oil temp,fuel pressure,trans temp.

B&M star shifter

New balanced driveline (portland driveline)

Ridetech A-arms w/ 2” drop spindles
Ridetech truturn kit
Ride tech HQ coil over shocks

Willwood dynapro 6 big brake/front hub kit 12.19" slotted and vented rotors w/ 2"drop spindles p/n 140-10510

Will wood master cylinder and proportioning valve 15/16" bore. P/n 260-13375/p/bk

New complete car clear glass kit professionally tinted with new regulators

new carpet, headliner, moldings etc.

To do:
Ford 9” narrowed to 56" wms 4500 through moser with DSE mini tub kit
Ridetech 4 link rear airbar system with HQ coil overs 2376 through ridetech
Wheels and tires newstalgiawheels.com
Boze ZE friction-black
18x10 front 275/35-18 5.75" backspace
18x12 rear 335/30-18 5.5"bs
fuel pump cutoff
Battery relocate
custom made console with double din stereo
all speakers and amp.
Aerospace SS 250 fuel pump (might be to much pressure) 10-17lbs???
Fuel tank sump kit c4041
LED taillight and front parking light ecklers part number 33-189483
Rear package tray ecklers 33-289550
Kick panel w/speakers ecklers 33-246042
Park brake pedal ecklers 33-186299
Park brake kit 33-184460
Trunk light ecklers 33-179716
Hood light ecklers 33-185796
Horns ecklers 33-255841
Core support filler ecklers 33-246672
Polished billet grill ecklers 33-203237
Front bumper
Rear bumper guards ecklers 33-186834
Rear louvers ecklers 33-182095
Left rear quarter amd ecklers 33-255254
Outer rear wheel wells ecklers 33-181501
33-181500
Left rear lower quarter ecklers 33-183482
Trunk pan ecklers 33-179427
Narrowed gas tank ecklers 33-187062
Sender 33-187064
Inner pillar moldings ecklers 33-179258

[kimosabi]

A dyno is not a measuring tool as much as it is a tuning tool. Take the car to the track and go from there. Doesn't hurt to verify full pedal throttle opening either.

[MadBill]

Wow, well done; we need a plaque to award for the most complete driveline build specs EVER!

[289nate]

Take it to a car show and say it's a 500 HP Corvette engine. Everyone else does. Or take it to the track, keep your ego in check, and learn what makes a car go fast.

[289nate]

A dyno is not a measuring tool as much as it is a tuning tool. Take the car to the track and go from there. Doesn't hurt to verify full pedal throttle opening either.

x2! Some people go to all the trouble to have a fast car. Dyno numbers are a tuning tool and a starting point once you get to the drag strip. Others just want to hang a number in front of their engine while chillin' at a car show. I personally like the car show at the track.

The drag strip tells you how good you really are. The dyno tells you how hard you can brag at a car show.

I'm not against the dyno by any means. Had my cheap POS on an engine dyno. I'll take the engine dyno every time. You'll never see me on a chassis dyno unless it's to win a bet. My money is spent on real data.

[cjperformance]

Wow, well done; we need a plaque to award for the most complete driveline build specs EVER!

Na not impressed , he didnt give us the paint code !

[JoePorting]

TMI. I'd run a 3500 to 4000 stall converter.

[user-23911]

What's with the squiggly lines on the dyno sheet?

Is it where the wheels were spinning on the rollers?

It's a bit worthless like that?

[Seanh832]

I'd sell the vacuum secondaries carb, buy a Holley HP double pumper or self learning Throttle body injection, a Holley Strip Dominator intake and have a good custom converter built for it. Get a good HVC coil for it also ..You're air fuel ratio should be mid 12's throughout the pull for max power. Have you tried total timing closer to 36 degrees?

[Walter R. Malik]

With a street car ...one has to remember that Wide Open Throttle power has little to do with "drive around" part throttle power and response.

I suspect you are now feeling that phenomena first hand.
A 2,400 RPM stall torque converter is not high enough or the cam is to big; (they do not MATCH one another when using that size cylinder head).

EDIT: If it was mine I would choose to put a smaller, better suited cam in it.

[treyrags]

With a street car ...one has to remember that Wide Open Throttle power has little to do with "drive around" part throttle power and response.

I suspect you are now feeling that phenomena first hand.
A 2,400 RPM stall torque converter is not high enough; (it does not MATCH the camshaft).

This. Everything is a compromise unless you have variable cam and ignition events on the fly along with variable stall.

[CamKing]

Put a victor Jr on it, and it'll pick up a bunch of power above 5,500rpm.
If you want to stick with the Performer, drop the cam duration down to around 230, so the cam will match the manifold.

[blykins]

My biggest gripe from camshaft manufacturers is when they include an "rpm range" for a specific cam....like they know which heads are on the engine, exactly how many cubes it is, what the flow numbers are, etc. They need to leave that line off the description.

[RevTheory]

My biggest gripe from camshaft manufacturers is when they include an "rpm range" for a specific cam....like they know which heads are on the engine, exactly how many cubes it is, what the flow numbers are, etc. They need to leave that line off the description.

"Small block Chevrolet, 283 to 400 cubic inches", lol

[CamKing]

My biggest gripe from camshaft manufacturers is when they include an "rpm range" for a specific cam....like they know which heads are on the engine, exactly how many cubes it is, what the flow numbers are, etc. They need to leave that line off the description.

I love it when they do it. It makes it easier for me to sell my cams.

Nothing makes my competition look dumber, then a catalog listing cams for 262" to 400" SB chevys, and stating the RPM band would be the same.

Looking at one right now.
SB Chevy, 262-400
4,200-8,200 RPM
Good all around mid-range power
263/273 @.050"
.640"/645" Lift
112 LSA

In a 400", that cam would be done by 7,600
In a 283", that cam wouldn't start running until 6,000rpm.