How to remove this set screw?

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ijames
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Re: 4sfed

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4sfed wrote:
Kevin Johnson wrote: Right after this thread started I had a call from someone working on an alloy Porsche sump casting where a 5mm allen head bolt was stripped. The chemical method sounded perfect and I sent him a link.
It's an interesting method, so I set up an experiment. I dissolved 1.9 oz of alum in one cup of water and put an unplated 6mm stud and a scrap of aluminum in the solution. The solution has been maintained at 80° F for three days. The stud and aluminum are completely intact, although the aluminum is slightly discolored. I'll try a higher temperature, but that would make this method impractical to use on a head or block.
First, make sure to clean any oil or grease off of the bolt (yeah, I forgot to mention that before, sorry #-o ). A good shot of brake clean should do it, then let it dry. Second, warming things up does two things, it speeds up the chemical reaction and it greatly increases the solubility of the alum. At 20C (68F) the solubility of potassium alum (Aluminium potassium sulfate dodecahydrate) is only 14 grams per 100 mL of water, but heating to just 50C (122F) raises this to 37 g per 100 mL water. That's over sixty percent by volume, and taking both temperature and concentration into account should speed things up over ten times. Barely cover the bolt with warm water, add enough alum to saturate the solution (so a little solid alum remains undissolved), and it will go much faster. Any kind of heater you can rig up will help. AvE used a christmas tree sized light bulb taped to his can in the video. If you have a incandescent worklight lay it as close as you can. An infrared heater would be great. I love chemistry but it can be painfully slow, as anyone who has waited hours and hours for Drano to clear a clog can testify. If what is broken off is soft and you can get in and drill, or get in a few whacks with a hammer, or any other mechanical method, do that first. If you broke off a good HSS or carbide drill or hardened screw extractor and drilling that is going to be a real pain, try this to at least loosen things up so you can pick out the hard bits after some hours of soaking. Or, if you have a very fragile piece or a very tiny bolt or other reason drilling is risky, try this. I haven't ever tried adding hydrogen peroxide so don't know how much that helps. If you try it, just use 3% peroxide instead of water to keep the concentrations high and the volume low.
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Re: How to remove this set screw?

Post by BigBlocksOnTop2 »

Please tell me that you have got this screw removed.
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Re: How to remove this set screw?

Post by pamotorman »

I did not read all the posts but it is not a screw it is a national taper thread pipe plug and should come loose if you heat the aluminum as the aluminum expands more than the steel pipe plug.
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Re: How to remove this set screw?

Post by wyrmrider »

I was going to ask if you were still screwed but I won't now that you remind me you're plugged
I picked up a couple of good ideas for broken studs down below deck level
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4sfed
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4sfed

Post by 4sfed »

ijames wrote:
4sfed wrote:
Kevin Johnson wrote: Right after this thread started I had a call from someone working on an alloy Porsche sump casting where a 5mm allen head bolt was stripped. The chemical method sounded perfect and I sent him a link.
It's an interesting method, so I set up an experiment. I dissolved 1.9 oz of alum in one cup of water and put an unplated 6mm stud and a scrap of aluminum in the solution. The solution has been maintained at 80° F for three days. The stud and aluminum are completely intact, although the aluminum is slightly discolored. I'll try a higher temperature, but that would make this method impractical to use on a head or block.
SNIP:
First, make sure to clean any oil or grease off of the bolt (yeah, I forgot to mention that before, sorry #-o ). A good shot of brake clean should do it, then let it dry. Second, warming things up does two things, it speeds up the chemical reaction and it greatly increases the solubility of the alum. At 20C (68F) the solubility of potassium alum (Aluminium potassium sulfate dodecahydrate) is only 14 grams per 100 mL of water, but heating to just 50C (122F) raises this to 37 g per 100 mL water. That's over sixty percent by volume, and taking both temperature and concentration into account should speed things up over ten times. Barely cover the bolt with warm water, add enough alum to saturate the solution (so a little solid alum remains undissolved), and it will go much faster. Any kind of heater you can rig up will help. AvE used a christmas tree sized light bulb taped to his can in the video.
Yes, the stud was degreased and one end ground to make sure there was no coating to inhibit the reaction. The solution is saturated at 80° F ... the stud is lying next to the undisolved crystals. Please, someone else try this method. I would love to have a way to remove the occasional broken tap without going to the extreme of EDM. If it needs 150° F to work, that's fine, but bolts, studs and plugs can be removed with much less effort with a welder. I removed 5 broken engine mount bolts and 5 broken studs from a Duramax turbo and manifolds in about 60 minutes this afternoon.
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Rick Finsta
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Re: How to remove this set screw?

Post by Rick Finsta »

I got it to work on the bench (not in situ) using my halogen work lamp as a heater but I wouldn't do that again. I don't like leaving that sucker on overnight in the garage it seems like a fire hazard waiting to burn my house to the ground. Instead of water I used the concentrated Alum we get at work for wastewater treatment. It wasn't gone in the morning but you could wiggle it in the hole so I was then able to easily pull it out with a left handed drill bit.
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