Pin oilers on street engines.

[pamotorman]

How many 1.5mm drills did you break off trying to drill through almost 6" of 4340? That would take specialized tooling, not doing that in a craftsman drill press.

someone can drill them. I would check with the rod manufactures

[stealth]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-of-8-Carril ... HI&vxp=mtr

Example of rod with edm hole and forced pin oiling

[Warp Speed]

Yes, edm is the procedure of choice for this.

[Kevin Johnson]

How big of a hole would you drill through the rods?

I am sure this has been done before and should be in print somewhere

Pauter Rifle Drilling Option
Rifle Drilling is the process in which a path is machined through the rod beam from the rod journal to the corresponding piston pin for the purpose of feeding pressurized lubrication directly from crankshaft to wristpin. Our particular operation is performed through EDM (electrical discharge machining) process and generates an end-to-end through hole of 1.5mm in diameter, keep in mind upper bearing shells may need to be drilled to complete the free flowing of oil from crank to pin. For decades the above process “Rifle Drilling” as has proved to be a positive method of insuring ample lubrication and cooling of this critical area especially in engine programs where vacuuming devices are used to minimize power robbing windage issues.

You don't have to feed the pin. Just use an aimed intersecting passage at the small end. You might want to use a calibrated orifice.

if you do it the way I described the oil will be shot directly on the underside of the piston crown. it also would oil the pin as a secondary benefit.

you can drill the length of the rod from the big end into the pin bore. a shallow groove in the pin bore to allow the oil to go around the pin and out a hole drilled in the top of the rod so the oil squirts on the underside of the piston. you will also need to drill a hole in the upper rod bearing insert

What size hole in the top?
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/oil-squ ... post373474
http://www.gearhob.com/eng/design/drill_eng.htm
~.049"

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ima ... t/book.gif .031"


http://forum.sscycle.com/viewtopic.php? ... 624#p97027 1mm ~.039"

[user-23911]

Do they even need lubing?

Some factory conrods have squirt holes.
Some don't.
Some have pressed pins, some fully floating.

When the crank is spinning, the big end bearing throws oil everywhere.
How much is needed?

Personally I wouldn't bother but then again, I've got piston squirters.

[Kevin Johnson]

The RB26DETT uses squirters that are aimed into passageways in the pistons. Look up "cocktail shaker" oiling for even more extreme versions.

The classic one is the Honda B series that uses a squirter and 4 slots on each rod. Jon has good stories about Honda dyno testing numerous variations and filling up rail cars with tested scrapped versions (not just testing squirters, of course).

[Nick Campagna]

you can drill the length of the rod from the big end into the pin bore. a shallow groove in the pin bore to allow the oil to go around the pin and out a hole drilled in the top of the rod so the oil squirts on the underside of the piston. you will also need to drill a hole in the upper rod bearing insert

I looked into this same thing. I like the idea. The Crower rods are big $$ , but a local EDM shop was way less expensive. Why not drill a hole from the big end to the small end xnext to the beam, and tack weld a steel transfer tube to the small end ? You could tack weld it every inch to the side of the beam. Re-balancing will be strongly suggested afterward.

[Dan Timberlake]

you can drill the length of the rod from the big end into the pin bore. a shallow groove in the pin bore to allow the oil to go around the pin and out a hole drilled in the top of the rod so the oil squirts on the underside of the piston. you will also need to drill a hole in the upper rod bearing insert

I looked into this same thing. I like the idea. The Crower rods are big $$ , but a local EDM shop was way less expensive. Why not drill a hole from the big end to the small end xnext to the beam, and tack weld a steel transfer tube to the small end ? You could tack weld it every inch to the side of the beam. Re-balancing will be strongly suggested afterward.

==============
A tack weld might not be quite as bad a stress raiser as filing a notch in a con rod I-beam/H-beam.
I'd also be hesitant to risk wrecking the metallurgy with any welding on an unsuspecting con rod.

http://www.nationalboard.org/index.aspx ... 164&ID=189

http://www.jflf.org/v/vspfiles/assets/p ... ile103.pdf

[Nick Campagna]

Maybe tack welding is not the process to use. Brazing could work, as it is much lower in temperature. I would drill a hole in both ends, run the tube between them and captured in the two ends, and then braze the ends. When I first got into hot rodding, boxing rods was a common practice, so welding is not unheard of.

[Kevin Johnson]

An experiment!

[Nick Campagna]

Spray welding (brazing) could also work. Might have to EDM the holes to keep adrill from walking, or use an insert to match the curved surface to a flat surface.

[Bos's5.0]

pistonoilspray001_mini.jpg

[The Dark Side of Will]

No one has brought up notched bearings and big ends yet...

[Flo]

Mike Laws is still out there makign those kits. BLP does not offer them anymore.
Greets
Flo