Callie's cranks question

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ClassicComp
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Callie's cranks question

Post by ClassicComp »

I have a Callie's magnum sbc crank here (brand new) and the dampener bolt hole is counterbored 2.150 deep to .470dia then the last 1.400 is tapped 7/16-20.
Have I possibly received a blem crank.
1st time I've seen something like this in a high dollar crank.
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Rick360
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Re: Callie's cranks question

Post by Rick360 »

Callies cranks all need an extra long balancer bolt. Not sure why they do it that way but the Callies cranks I've seen are all like that.

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Re: Callie's cranks question

Post by GOSFAST »

That's the way they were made, not sure if they're still the same though! I refuse to use any Callies products here, we do sell their products when customers call though.

I've only worked with a handful of their cranks and most were BBC's. It was a few years ago on a SBC, I called complaining about that issue you see. All I can say is I wasn't a "happy camper" about it!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Wait till you get up to needing to use a "balancer-remover/installer", all I'll say is "Good Luck"!
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MadBill
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Re: Callie's cranks question

Post by MadBill »

I wonder if the thought was to reduce the stress concentration at the bottom of the thread by moving it deeper, all the way into the main bearing journal? :-k
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resurrectionjoe
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Re: Callie's cranks question

Post by resurrectionjoe »

Callies been doing that for years.

You need to pick one of these kits.

http://www.callies.com/components/specialty/

Call and talk to Don G at callies.

He'll make sure you get the right one.
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Re: Callie's cranks question

Post by Warp Speed »

MadBill wrote:I wonder if the thought was to reduce the stress concentration at the bottom of the thread by moving it deeper, all the way into the main bearing journal? :-k
Yep, just about everyone does it.
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Re: Callie's cranks question

Post by Kevin Johnson »

MadBill wrote:I wonder if the thought was to reduce the stress concentration at the bottom of the thread by moving it deeper, all the way into the main bearing journal? :-k
Warp Speed wrote:Yep, just about everyone does it.
Years back when following the discussion on Nissan KA24 snout failures this was the fix.
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Re: Callie's cranks question

Post by SchmidtMotorWorks »

It adds the strength of the bolt to the snout.
It reduces breakage at the blend between the snout and the gear stop.
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needforspeed66gt
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Re: Callie's cranks question

Post by needforspeed66gt »

SchmidtMotorWorks wrote:It adds the strength of the bolt to the snout.
It reduces breakage at the blend between the snout and the gear stop.
This.

We used Callies cranks exclusively in our GTA race engine program years ago, always used a nice long ARP stud threaded into the crank to hold on the damper, pulley, and dry sump cog drive. It's a stronger design that is used in the current LS crankshafts, NOT a reason to avoid their cranks. :lol:
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Re: Callie's cranks question

Post by Warp Speed »

needforspeed66gt wrote:
SchmidtMotorWorks wrote:It adds the strength of the bolt to the snout.
It reduces breakage at the blend between the snout and the gear stop.
This.

We used Callies cranks exclusively in our GTA race engine program years ago, always used a nice long ARP stud threaded into the crank to hold on the damper, pulley, and dry sump cog drive. It's a stronger design that is used in the current LS crankshafts, NOT a reason to avoid their cranks. :lol:
You would be better to use the fastener that goes into the crank to hold the damper, and face mount the accessories to the damper, than running the long fastener to hold everything.
Just a little tangent! Lol
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