turbo play

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justahoby
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turbo play

Post by justahoby »

This is my first turbo play. I cut up my headers and rerouted them. Is only a single 88 mm. Ebay junk .. Setting it up for 8 psi. Going to through the carb next. I let it freewheel for awhile checking my headers for leaked on the welds. It is a single on a 454 for the street. Nothing special, just playing
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Re: turbo play

Post by F-BIRD'88 »

Mount the turbocharger at the back of the car-truck just behind the rear axle. It replaces the muffler.

Now you can use conventional exhaust headers or hi flow exhaust manifolds 2 into 1 exhaust system.

Run the charge pipe back up to the motor, on the drivers side.
A remote oil pump return is required to oil the rear mounted turbo.

The turbo runs a LOT COOLER mounted at the back and no fussing-modifying with turbo manifolds etc.
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Re: turbo play

Post by justahoby »

F-BIRD'88 wrote:Mount the turbocharger at the back of the car-truck just behind the rear axle. It replaces the muffler.

Now you can use conventional exhaust headers or hi flow exhaust manifolds 2 into 1 exhaust system.

Run the charge pipe back up to the motor, on the drivers side.
A remote oil pump return is required to oil the rear mounted turbo.

The turbo runs a LOT COOLER mounted at the back and no fussing-modifying with turbo manifolds etc.
I may just do that next build.
As I'm approaching 40,I still think I'm 20. What the hell is wrong with me?
Lizardracing
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Re: turbo play

Post by Lizardracing »

And what about the turbo lag from such a long up and down pipe?

What about rocks and water from the road debris?
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Re: turbo play

Post by wyrmrider »

read up on those rear mounted turbos
lots of ways to mount air cleaners and intercoolers
gets the heat out of your engine compartment
lag is not as bad as you might think
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Re: turbo play

Post by ap72 »

Rear mounts do work fine when you can't fit them under the hood.

If you can fit them and don't have overheating issues then there is no reason to move them away from the engine. It's like using a bandaid to cover uncut skin. Doesn't really make much sense.

Let us know how it turns out, looks like it'll have plenty of pull.
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Re: turbo play

Post by ptuomov »

Is a 454 cid engine really going to feel laggy under any scenario?
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justahoby
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Re: turbo play

Post by justahoby »

ptuomov wrote:Is a 454 cid engine really going to feel laggy under any scenario?
This one is.not laggy. I actually put a bigger flange and turbo on it. I am currently running an S475 Borg Werner knock off from eBay. 1.32 AR exhaust. Now I wished I had the s480. Boost is on Demand. I push the throttle down at 2000 rpm boost comes right on in!
It's a rush to drive. I am still tuning it but got it where it runs half way decent. I am running an 850 double pumper. I boost referenced the power valve (4 window) in the front with PVRC at 0.113" with 78 primary jets. Been drilling the rears till I get in the ballpark before I keep buying jets. The wideband now says it's good under boost but the jets had to be up to 0.144"... either I'm missing something, need to step up to a bigger carb? Up to this point the more fuel I throw at it it runs better. Still trying to sort out details split second of instant lean/ rich .. but.in general it likes what I'm giving it. It goes to 11 lbs boost.with the wastegate tightened up.
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Re: turbo play

Post by justahoby »

Now I'm running into issues. I'm running a centerpiece clutch.. disc didn't seem to last long so am running a hays disc ...never had an issue with the disc and pressure plate. I passed a couple cars and the clutch smoke like mad for a second. Just regular shifting and passing. Any recommendations on a good twin disc clutch... I don't want to spend too much but it seems I must now.. :D :D
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Re: turbo play

Post by Keith Morganstein »

ACT brand, but you prob don't need a twin disc unless you just want one.

The ACT single disc like a GM6-HDSS has 735 lb/ft capacity and the GM6-HDG6 has 940 lb/ft. Both under $500. ( that's an example)

An ACT twin will handle more and have a lighter pedal, but will cost $1000-$1200.

It's important for long clutch life, that one never uses the clutch to accelerate the vehicle on shifts. Esp high power and heavy vehicles. Clutch fully engaged before stomping that pedal. Just saying.....
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Re: turbo play

Post by justahoby »

Keith Morganstein wrote:ACT brand, but you prob don't need a twin disc unless you just want one.

The ACT single disc like a GM6-HDSS has 735 lb/ft capacity and the GM6-HDG6 has 940 lb/ft. Both under $500. ( that's an example)

An ACT twin will handle more and have a lighter pedal, but will cost $1000-$1200.

It's important for long clutch life, that one never uses the clutch to accelerate the vehicle on shifts. Esp high power and heavy vehicles. Clutch fully engaged before stomping that pedal. Just saying.....
Yea. I did not actually ride the clutch or.pop it... It was just enough between gears to just not grab..... I drove easy after that... I am planning on building a better bottom end and going twins now . :twisted: :twisted:
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user-23911

Re: turbo play

Post by user-23911 »

As a rough guide, if you give it 15 pounds boost, you'll double the factory torque numbers.

That'll be enough to destroy most clutches.
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Re: turbo play

Post by justahoby »

joe 90 wrote:As a rough guide, if you give it 15 pounds boost, you'll double the factory torque numbers.

That'll be enough to destroy most clutches.
I'm running the centerpiece clutch with the weights on it. About 11 lbs boost. That clutch does not Like it. At all ...
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Re: turbo play

Post by justahoby »

Probably the vehicle weight don't help.either... but I don't have killer tires on it or nothing
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Re: turbo play

Post by MileHighMan »

FWIW,,I didn't catch fuel type,, but if your using 91 pump and no I/C,, I'd strongly suggest a water/meth system on builds like that before shooting for more boost....Tuned right,, you should get to 15lbs pretty easy with no damage....as Joe 90 said,,you will be around double the factory rated power.....Dan
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