Dyno operators. I need your help.

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CamKing
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Dyno operators. I need your help.

Post by CamKing »

For those of you who can adjust the coolant flow to the engine. How many GPM of water are you putting thru the average engine?

I'm working on my boat, and I'm trying to go to an electric water pump, but the automotive ones won't work, because they don't have enough suction to pull the water up from the bottom of the boat.
I've been looking at some marine pumps, but I don't know how many GPM it needs to flow.
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Re: Dyno operators. I need your help.

Post by CREngines »

i would imagine you need something along the lines of a OE mechanical pump, or 100 GPM at wide open throttle. Thats a good sized pump. to put that in perspective, the brake recovery pump on my dyno moves around that and it is a 2.5 hp three phase pump, 2" in 1.25" out. Take alot of alternator to run that, may be easier to just run a mechanical one or incorporate some kind of "scoop" on the water inlet.
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Re: Dyno operators. I need your help.

Post by steve316 »

meiziere pumps are rated at 35 gpm so that should be good. Steve
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Re: Dyno operators. I need your help.

Post by rob vine »

does your boat engine have a sea water pump that bolts to the balancer like a merc cruiser does
, easy install
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Post by Truckedup »

Boats always are running under heavy throttle and making heat... .Meiziere suggests either a 35 or 55 GPM pump for a Z06 late Vette for example....Is that enough for extended time at high power?. Yes the mechanical pump mentioned if you have room...
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Re: Dyno operators. I need your help.

Post by pamotorman »

JABSCO makes all types of marine water pumps
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Re: Dyno operators. I need your help.

Post by ParDeus »

Well, when I was racing boats, we tried switching to an electric pump on our R&D boat, which was the style of your boat.

Is your's a small or big block? When we had the small block in, we tried a 40gpm automotive style pump, but this was very short term. With the big-block in, we threaded the inlets, and ran a 66gpm pump from Grainger. I believe it was a recovery pump, and was about $350 (almost 10 years ago).

For the pickup, I took an old outdrive, cut out the water pickups in sections, and we fabbed them into the trim tabs. Definitely an "odd" setup, but that was the purpose. Also had a 320a(maybe 300a) alternator, and that alt took around 20hp to spin in an A-B-A dyno test.

Anywho, the 66gpm was fine for our needs, however we were only WOT for ~20secs, and almost no idling whatsoever.

I wish I could be more specific, but it's been a while.

Good luck in your search!
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Re: Dyno operators. I need your help.

Post by racear2865 »

My dyno pump is a 10 hp and pumps 75 gpm at 50 psi. Ive had mine at 1500hp. 90% of the motors will use about 50gpm at 40 psi.
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Post by racing97 »

I have seen 65 gpm on my Dyno with the Standard GM pump and a fairly used Cup engine


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Re: Dyno operators. I need your help.

Post by 140Air »

CamKing wrote:For those of you who can adjust the coolant flow to the engine. How many GPM of water are you putting thru the average engine?

I'm working on my boat, and I'm trying to go to an electric water pump, but the automotive ones won't work, because they don't have enough suction to pull the water up from the bottom of the boat.
I've been looking at some marine pumps, but I don't know how many GPM it needs to flow.
Auto electric pumps don't put out the hp necessary to move enough water through the block to cool an engine continuously running at power. One hp is about 746 watts. On a 14.4v system that's about 52 amps. It takes a few hp. However, shouldn't it be possible to design the intake so as to force water through the engine when running at speed?
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Re: Dyno operators. I need your help.

Post by Walter R. Malik »

Sea Water belt driven pumps, (like for Mercruiser 454 production engines), will easily lift and pump enough water but, at NO or very little pressure so, and engine water pump is still needed, (getting water from a sea water pump) to pump the water through the engine and any coolers in the pathway..
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Post by 1972ho »

Why not have a scoop injection installed and a electric pump.When I was in the navy that's how we got water in the circulating system once we were above a certain speed free water.
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Re: Dyno operators. I need your help.

Post by Chris1 »

A higher flow rate will lower the delta from coolant in to coolant out - even temps across the engine are a good thing. If you have enough cooling capacity to control coolant in, regardless of coolant out, then the flow rate through the engine is about creating an acceptable delta. If you push 40gpm through an iron V6 for example, holding a steady 120-130hp, you'll see about a 10F delta through the engine. Your engine specifics and planned use will drive your results.
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Re: Dyno operators. I need your help.

Post by Warp Speed »

CamKing wrote:For those of you who can adjust the coolant flow to the engine. How many GPM of water are you putting thru the average engine?

I'm working on my boat, and I'm trying to go to an electric water pump, but the automotive ones won't work, because they don't have enough suction to pull the water up from the bottom of the boat.
I've been looking at some marine pumps, but I don't know how many GPM it needs to flow.
50-60gpm should be just fine. Especially with an open system.
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Re: Dyno operators. I need your help.

Post by noice »

Can you run a closed loop freshwater keel cooler setup? Coupled with a little bit of a head tank above the pump on the motor and you may be able to make a stock pump work.
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