Cross Drilled Crank

[mustangcobra438]

Anyone have any pics of modified pickups that have bat wings or any other type deflectors/ slosh fins
Welded to them?

[Kevin Johnson]

How about showing what you are using as a starting point?

[dave brode]

On the OP's subject:

Funny that the industry has come up with a spiffy name for what is basically stock type oiling ["straight shot"]

I realize some here will not use either type drillings in a crank, but those that would, please give opinion on the good/bad of each type of passage. "T" and "7" style.

Thanks.
Dave

[mustangcobra438]

How about showing what you are using as a starting point?

Typical steel canton pro pan with larger pickup tube that canton offers for Windsor in fox mustang. Adjusted pickup so that's its 1/2" off bottom of pan. I've been told I can run it all the way down to 1/4 and be good because the pro pan has ridges that keep pickup from being able to suck to pan. The pickup design itself won't allow it to anyway in my opinion because their is no whay for it to have perfect vacuum because the way the mesh is welded to cantons pickups.
The pickup just obout center the rear sump of pan. I've been told to extend to all the way the rear of the sump because of how hard the car leaves and how it always carries front tires at least 8" to the 60ft with limiter set at 1-1/2"
( only way to make the car hook hard at local track)
But others say that if I move pickup to back then it will starve it when I hit brakes/ chute.
I shift into neutral at finish line and can run a accumulator if that's will fixin that issue.

[Kevin Johnson]

How about showing what you are using as a starting point?

Typical steel canton pro pan with larger pickup tube that canton offers for Windsor in fox mustang. Adjusted pickup so that's its 1/2" off bottom of pan. I've been told I can run it all the way down to 1/4 and be good because the pro pan has ridges that keep pickup from being able to suck to pan. The pickup design itself won't allow it to anyway in my opinion because their is no whay for it to have perfect vacuum because the way the mesh is welded to cantons pickups.
The pickup just obout center the rear sump of pan. I've been told to extend to all the way the rear of the sump because of how hard the car leaves and how it always carries front tires at least 8" to the 60ft with limiter set at 1-1/2"
( only way to make the car hook hard at local track)
But others say that if I move pickup to back then it will starve it when I hit brakes/ chute.
I shift into neutral at finish line and can run a accumulator if that's will fixin that issue.

I would fabricate a narrow strap going from one side of the pickup to the other and space it 1/4" inch away so that the pickup cannot physically come closer than 1/4". Through careful trial fittings with your pan, gaskets/scraper etc. lower the pickup till the strap just makes contact with the floor or slightly less.

If you are willing to run the accumulator (large) you could move the pickup back.

The most important thing for you will be knowing exactly how much oil is where, at what time and what condition it is in.

Add another dip stick to the front of the pan. Carefully calibrate it and the other dipstick so that you know how much VOLUME is present when measuring. Volume because neat oil and aerated or foamed oil will both make marks on the dipstick. Record all this data and when you gathered it.

I suggest after every run, purge the Accusump into the pan, vacuum out all the oil from the front and rear of the pan and let that oil sit undisturbed so that all the bubbles clear. Carefully note the volume of oil when you first vacuum it out and how much it decreases after sitting -- this will help give you an idea of how much air is trapped in the oil at that particular point in time. Remember that in the minutes it takes to perform this step a certain amount of air is going to be released from the oil. Note the temperature of the oil. I suggest spending about $100 for the Widergren-Clemens SAE paper including buying the garage sale blender and some stainless steel screening and measuring the air entrainment and air release rate of your chosen oil at the temperature it is being run. More data.

Measure the maximum amount of air free oil that you can put into the pan with the engine not running before the oil floods the windage tray. When you refill the sump use that as a maximum. Run the engine briefly so that the Accusump can recharge with air free oil. Recheck the dipsticks and add additional air free oil to bring the system to your normal fill level. Be accurate and consistent and keep good records of how much oil is where after every run. This will be very time consuming initially but armed with this knowledge you will be in a much better position to address future issues including whether your crankshaft needs or doesn't need cross-drilling.

Right now you are floating in a nebulous cloud of ignorance as to what is really going on in the pan and engine. You need data and consistency to make logical decisions.

Good luck.

[pamotorman]

How about showing what you are using as a starting point?

Typical steel canton pro pan with larger pickup tube that canton offers for Windsor in fox mustang. Adjusted pickup so that's its 1/2" off bottom of pan. I've been told I can run it all the way down to 1/4 and be good because the pro pan has ridges that keep pickup from being able to suck to pan. The pickup design itself won't allow it to anyway in my opinion because their is no whay for it to have perfect vacuum because the way the mesh is welded to cantons pickups.
The pickup just obout center the rear sump of pan. I've been told to extend to all the way the rear of the sump because of how hard the car leaves and how it always carries front tires at least 8" to the 60ft with limiter set at 1-1/2"
( only way to make the car hook hard at local track)
But others say that if I move pickup to back then it will starve it when I hit brakes/ chute.
I shift into neutral at finish line and can run a accumulator if that's will fixin that issue.

add some horizonal baffles to the back the pan to prevent the oil from climbing the back of the pan on acceleration. also a box with trap doors around the pickup will prevent the oil from leaving the pickup when braking or accelerating.

[Belgian1979]

How about showing what you are using as a starting point?

Typical steel canton pro pan with larger pickup tube that canton offers for Windsor in fox mustang. Adjusted pickup so that's its 1/2" off bottom of pan. I've been told I can run it all the way down to 1/4 and be good because the pro pan has ridges that keep pickup from being able to suck to pan. The pickup design itself won't allow it to anyway in my opinion because their is no whay for it to have perfect vacuum because the way the mesh is welded to cantons pickups.
The pickup just obout center the rear sump of pan. I've been told to extend to all the way the rear of the sump because of how hard the car leaves and how it always carries front tires at least 8" to the 60ft with limiter set at 1-1/2"
( only way to make the car hook hard at local track)
But others say that if I move pickup to back then it will starve it when I hit brakes/ chute.
I shift into neutral at finish line and can run a accumulator if that's will fixin that issue.

I would fabricate a narrow strap going from one side of the pickup to the other and space it 1/4" inch away so that the pickup cannot physically come closer than 1/4". Through careful trial fittings with your pan, gaskets/scraper etc. lower the pickup till the strap just makes contact with the floor or slightly less.

If you are willing to run the accumulator (large) you could move the pickup back.

The most important thing for you will be knowing exactly how much oil is where, at what time and what condition it is in.

Add another dip stick to the front of the pan. Carefully calibrate it and the other dipstick so that you know how much VOLUME is present when measuring. Volume because neat oil and aerated or foamed oil will both make marks on the dipstick. Record all this data and when you gathered it.

I suggest after every run, purge the Accusump into the pan, vacuum out all the oil from the front and rear of the pan and let that oil sit undisturbed so that all the bubbles clear. Carefully note the volume of oil when you first vacuum it out and how much it decreases after sitting -- this will help give you an idea of how much air is trapped in the oil at that particular point in time. Remember that in the minutes it takes to perform this step a certain amount of air is going to be released from the oil. Note the temperature of the oil. I suggest spending about $100 for the Widergren-Clemens SAE paper including buying the garage sale blender and some stainless steel screening and measuring the air entrainment and air release rate of your chosen oil at the temperature it is being run. More data.

Measure the maximum amount of air free oil that you can put into the pan with the engine not running before the oil floods the windage tray. When you refill the sump use that as a maximum. Run the engine briefly so that the Accusump can recharge with air free oil. Recheck the dipsticks and add additional air free oil to bring the system to your normal fill level. Be accurate and consistent and keep good records of how much oil is where after every run. This will be very time consuming initially but armed with this knowledge you will be in a much better position to address future issues including whether your crankshaft needs or doesn't need cross-drilling.

Right now you are floating in a nebulous cloud of ignorance as to what is really going on in the pan and engine. You need data and consistency to make logical decisions.

Good luck.

I just welded a couple of 6 mm thick nuts on the corners of the pickup to prevent it from coming to close.

[mustangcobra438]

Would it be safe to say that my vacuum pump should actually help pull air bubbles out of the oil as well?
Interested in doing some of this testing. Never had a dipstick or even tube for that matter on a racecar. Guess ill be adding a couple for testing purposes that can be easily removed and caped off.
Something else I forgot to Mention is that the first two passes made it shook the tires really hard. Something else that could be disrupting oil as well I imagine.

[Kevin Johnson]

Would it be safe to say that my vacuum pump should actually help pull air bubbles out of the oil as well?

Well, in that case you might want to treat the resting oil that has been removed from the engine with the same level of vacuum. At one bar pressure, so normal atmospheric pressure at sea level, there could already be 9% by volume of dissolved gases in the oil. Your vacuum pump would make a percentage of that dissolved volume evolve out of solution. If you have already deaerated the oil then that is one less unknown.