lorax wrote:
I look at it like this. What did the filter cost. Cut it open, and see if it has paper end caps. Run it if you must, and then cut it open.
Here's what happens when a filter fails. There is NO PRESSURE in the filter. You start the engine, and pressure builds on the outside of the element. NO pressure can build on the inside until the block is full and pressurized. So you have 80-100 psi on the outside of the element, and ZERO on the inside. If the filter isn't built well enough to deal with that, it collapses. Heavy cold oil and a jazzy throttle with a weak filter element, too small of element, bad flowing media, and bypass, all add the problem.
Filters with paper end caps offer near nothing in support of the element against collapse.
Center tube with spiral ribbing are much stronger than perf/louvered punched tubes.
If you are going to run a filter with no bypass, then you have to make sure of 3 things. Flow capacity. Run the largest filter you can. That's a 5" long can, MINIMUM!
Run a filter with the strongest element you can find. As in metal end caps, and a spiral center tube if possible.
Bottom line, what does it cost to find out if that filter is something you want on you engine filtering its life blood?
Baldwin and Wix center tubes
You're totally right Lorax. I'll cut this filter open and check everything. The PH13 is 5.5" long.
I always checked oil filters after break in, but his time I'll cut it before use.
By "end caps" you mean the top and bottom steel washers that hold the paper element axially, right?
Thanks again for the informative post.