Best hp oil filter

[EVL253]

anyone got any info on an ac delco pfa10 filter? bought a bulk pack about 7-8 years ago still have a few left. been OK until recently when I modified the oil pump removing the bypass completely leaving only the main pressure relief valve. when cold at less than 2000 rpm pressure will go up to around 70 odd psi then drop to 50 ish then goes up. once its hot its fine no problems.

[lorax]

anyone got any info on an ac delco pfa10 filter? bought a bulk pack about 7-8 years ago still have a few left. been OK until recently when I modified the oil pump removing the bypass completely leaving only the main pressure relief valve. when cold at less than 2000 rpm pressure will go up to around 70 odd psi then drop to 50 ish then goes up. once its hot its fine no problems.

I have no idea what you mean by "removing the oil pump bypass", but if you mean you disabled the PUMP PRESSURE RELIEF, that's not a good move. JMO.
The 2 so called bypasses in the system. One is the pump relief that limits the pressure the pump supplies to the engine, and the excess oil is bypassed back to the oil pump intake, the other is a bypass either mounted on the block, or internal to the filter, in the even the filter cannot pass full flow thru the filter media. 2 TOTALLY DIFFERENT FUNCTIONS!

As for the PHA 10, if it looks like this when you look down the center outlet, you are looking at what is possibly the worse filter on the market. It is made on the Champ Lab E-core "commercial trade line" for oil change stations and garages. BTW, there is no such a E-core filter that doesn't bypass. Its built into the design of the double end plate, and the anti-drain back valve.


Look for a plastic center tube:


Look for a almost flat end plate verses a domed. NOTE that both these filters have the same part number!!!




If it has the domed end plate, and a metal center tube, you're good to go with what is a very good filter.

[EVL253]

thanks lorax I'll have a good look when I get home. I have a holden v8 which guess most of you us guys have never heard of. the pressure relief is still there. the bypass is part of the oil pump that bolts to the front of the engine & its that bypass I've blocked & rerouted the feed to the pressure relief to stop collapsing the filters as stock the relief works from reading the output after been through the filter. with bypass blocked the pressure is enough to collapse filters. stock holden bypass allows unfiltered oil through. this way all oil must go through filter.

[mbrooks]

I ran a Canton inline for years on a dry sump, and never had a filter come apart. How exactly does this come apart?


Filters, all filters, are one thing where size does matter. Flow, and holding capacity.

They come apart everytime I take the housing apart! The ends come off, one sticks too the lid and the other ends sticks inside, even if I oil them good with used oil. I run a canton spin-on 25-244 on a sbc, still got the pics when I complained about it when I 1st got it. It's an older(but not oldest) style housing and I'm not sure if the new one does it too. Canton did send me a new filter, since I only opened it up because I could see that hunk of loose glue inside and said it's normal the ends come off.

I've had this happen also with the Canton filter, the ends come off on removal after use and appeared to be glued to the media.

[raceman14]

ParDeus, the filter you are referring to, I had custom built up the road a ways in NC. It was a part of a "GM 604 Power Kit" that had other items included in it. The power increases were reported back to me by the customers that purchased them over the past 7 years.

As far as the best over the counter filters for quality oil filtration and power gains the Magnetti-Marelli filters are a good bang for the buck and have tested well on my Superflow ChassisDYno.

[Bad78Cutlass]

Napa Gold / WIX are the only filters I use

[raceman14]

NAPA / Wix are great filters and they do so with a power penalty over other filters that filter oil just as good will lower losses. The high density and winding of their filtering media causes a pressure drop and creates a bottle-neck unless you upsize significantly on the entry orifice and filter size. Doing this can create other problems related to pressure and flow, but as long as you address them you will be fine. I know everybody will say the pressure gauge reads the same but that is not really the point. The key is to determine what is happening to the oil pressure and volume where it is most important; "bearing surfaces" and not the oil pressure gauge output. Just imagine your oiling system as the plumbing system in your house, water at the upstairs shower is not the same as the shower downstairs...and the sink in the basement always takes longer to drain than all the rest even though it is closer to the drain??? Once you start ciphering some of that stuff out you will get a better understanding of what it takes to understand the oiling and filtering of a race engine.

My observations on the filter deal come from years of testing minutia for restricted applications, and in most cases I have been blessed to be paid to test other folks ideas. I also test stuff other folks don't even think about. Oil Pump Bypass springs, fuel pump springs and fuel pump rod configurations, belt and pulley pitch and tension as well as pulley sizes related to the same driven RPM's, water pump flows and pressures as well as impeller design, oil filter media materials as well as oil filter internal construction, alternator construction, design and operation, Ignition systems and voltage structure to drive the cars electrical systems, any fluid and fluid driven system such as dry sump pumps, water pumps, transmissions, rear ends and power steering.

I have been told over the years there is 100 different ways to get something done, but there is always 1 way that is better than all the rest. Finding that best way is the challenge I live for on a daily basis.

[dirtracr5]

What happened to your previous post from last week alienman?

[Larry Salisbury]

I've been getting along fine with the FL-1A, and FL-1-HP with a Filter-Mag for my daily Ford drivers. When it comes to racing engines it's the Pure Power Racing filter that get's the job done for me.

Larry

TRACO Engineering Co.,Inc.
1930 Stewart St. #57
Santa Monica, CA 90404

[Cubic_Cleveland]

Since this thread has been brought up from the dead, what do people find is the easiest way to get the metal end caps of the filtering media?

[Cashflow]

I'm late to the party, haven't been on here in quite some time. I do the same thing as SJ with my Canton filters but I take the time to epoxy the ends on the filter. I believe he also used to do the same thing. I have thought seriously about just using a better quality silicone however what I'm doing now seems to be working so I think I'll continue with that. These are on a Sunset 565 in my S/C dragster. Been using these filters for almost seven years now with no issues. Good luck with whatever you pick.

[69434]

Wix #51061R

[raceman14]

I have 2 filter cutters, one is an economy version that looks like a lay down can opener with a couple roller bearings and a cutting wheel and this one fits most smaller diameter and thin skin filters. I did have to build my own heavy duty version to cut open the larger and thicker skinned race filters. I think I got the cheap one from Motorstate / Lane for about $50.

If all else fails you can chisel apart with a sharp chisel or you can put a gash in the side of the filter with a screwdriver and cut open with some sharp tin snips. It is messier but if you do it over a bucket or pail it is not a big deal. You just have to be careful of the sharp edges cause they will cut you to the bone.

[Cubic_Cleveland]

I have 2 filter cutters, one is an economy version that looks like a lay down can opener with a couple roller bearings and a cutting wheel and this one fits most smaller diameter and thin skin filters. I did have to build my own heavy duty version to cut open the larger and thicker skinned race filters. I think I got the cheap one from Motorstate / Lane for about $50.

If all else fails you can chisel apart with a sharp chisel or you can put a gash in the side of the filter with a screwdriver and cut open with some sharp tin snips. It is messier but if you do it over a bucket or pail it is not a big deal. You just have to be careful of the sharp edges cause they will cut you to the bone.

If this is directed at me, I am talking about an easy way to remove the metal end caps as pictured here:

Thank you for your reply.

[jpankey]

Would you really rather wipe bearings out and have to rebuild or have a small amount get by unfiltered do to bypass ? I do not know of any brand name canister race filter for fords that doesnt by pass .Chevy yes cause oil pump itself has bypass capability .