Block cleaning

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Keith Morganstein
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Re: Block cleaning

Post by Keith Morganstein »

It should be understood (and seems so by most responses) that hot soapy water is the most important cleaning method.

However even after you've done your good job with that, a clean white shop towel will pick up (and get discolored) when honed bores are rubbed with various solvents and/or oils.
Automotive Machining, cylinder head rebuilding, engine building. Can't seem to quit #-o
Kahuna
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Re: Block cleaning

Post by Kahuna »

I had absolutely NO idea how much stuff was left in the cylinder bores after a thorough washing with the hot water/soap.
I spent a lot more time cleaning the bores and was amazed at both the amount of time it took, and/or how (dirty) the bores were.
I can't tell you all how appreciative I am of the info provided to my initial question. To me, a back yard builder, this site is invaluable.
Thanks to all
Jim
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Re: Block cleaning

Post by rfoll »

I learned the hard way that washing with solvent and a blow dry wasn't enough.
So much to do, so little time...
GRUBBY
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Re: Block cleaning

Post by GRUBBY »

Hey guys, Ive always used Spic & Span as a detergent for cleaning blocks, works really good and no flash rust. As said, Dexron and white rags are what ive always used for bores.

"Mouse" Marcellas of "Winged Express" fame used Lemon fresh Joy dish detergent, always heard it said that he told "Wild" Willie Borsch that if he smelled lemons, it was coming apart... Not sure how true that all is but its interesting and a fun story... :D
jeff8407
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Re: Block cleaning

Post by jeff8407 »

peejay wrote:
BigBro74 wrote:GUNK brand Engine Brite, you buy it at the parts store to clean engines with, it comes in a spray can. I know it sounds terribly redneck, but it works VERY well for a hobbyist operation like me..... it really keeps the casings from rusting, and breaks down any oil holding grit in the block. you still need to scrub a lot and get all of the honing grit out of the bores with hot soapy water. J
I've had lots of luck with regular old laundry detergent for the soap in the soapy water. I noticed a long time ago that when I'd clean with laundry detergent, iron would not rust even when left to dry naturally, or even after sitting in a humid garage or basement for years. Someone told me that it's the phosphorous in the detergent.
They have now taken most, if not all, the phosphorous out of laundry detergents.
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Re: Block cleaning

Post by beaker60 »

rfoll wrote:40 years ago they told us in my environmental technology class that the government made them take the phosphates out of the laundry soap. It doesn't come out in standard waste water treatment, and produces algae blooms in the receiving stream. The result was clean water and dirty clothes. That being said, if you can find real TSP, (tri-sodium phosphate), it would be the ideal for cleaning.

If anyone is interested,,you can still buy TSP at Home Depot or Lowes,,it's the section with commercial cleaning products,,and,,the last time I purchased the stuff it wasn't that expensive for a large box.I use it on the walls of my shop and Purple Power on the floors,,and like stated in this thread,,DO NOT,,let Purple Power,,, set on fresh machined metal,,it will eat into it with ease.I actually used a mixture of Purple Power and TSP on a block I built to clean all of the gunk off,,but be careful,,the mixture does create fumes that are not nice,,I have my own pressure washer which helps,,as soon as I get done scrubing the block,,I blast it off and it's kinda neat,,cause the mixture does a great job on the floor,,,"Two birds with one stone",,sorta thing.As far as wiping down the bores,,I have always used trans fluid until clean,,I found that WD-40 just didn't keep the surface rust off as well
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Re: Block cleaning

Post by peejay »

jeff8407 wrote:
peejay wrote:I noticed a long time ago that when I'd clean with laundry detergent, iron would not rust even when left to dry naturally, or even after sitting in a humid garage or basement for years. Someone told me that it's the phosphorous in the detergent.
They have now taken most, if not all, the phosphorous out of laundry detergents.
That's what I thought, but whatever they put in the generic laundry powder that they sell in 20lb boxes at Sears does an amazing job at preventing rust.
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Re: Block cleaning

Post by ParDeus »

I use a pressure washer and assorted nylon brushes. The chemical is 2-butoxyethanol, which is the main ingredient in Purple Power. We get 2-55gal drums and cut it 50% to make 4 drums.

If you pressure wash the bores really close with 200deg water, while the chem is flowing, you'd be very surprised when you go to wipe the bores. No grit/color on rag to speak of. Also, I use the blue paper shop towels that are made for glass only, as they leave NO lint.
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Re: Block cleaning

Post by Matt80 »

SupStk wrote: Sun Apr 20, 2014 10:53 am Nothing cleans like HOT soapy water before final assembly. I use Dawn and scrub brushes in hot water. Final rinse with hot water pressure washer. WD-40 prevents alligatering before blowing dry.
Hi, what soap are you using nowadays?
Some are leaving a white gunk on the metal.
And about the clothes and brushes, can we be 100% sure they are clean and won't leave particles in the galleries?
Thanks
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Re: Block cleaning

Post by SupStk »

Matt80 wrote: Wed Nov 29, 2017 1:43 pm
SupStk wrote: Sun Apr 20, 2014 10:53 am Nothing cleans like HOT soapy water before final assembly. I use Dawn and scrub brushes in hot water. Final rinse with hot water pressure washer. WD-40 prevents alligatering before blowing dry.
Hi, what soap are you using nowadays?
Some are leaving a white gunk on the metal.
And about the clothes and brushes, can we be 100% sure they are clean and won't leave particles in the galleries?
Thanks
Use the Super Clean in a weed sprayer for the initial cleaning then hand wash with Dawn, hot water and brushes. Final is the pressure washer rinse. No towels or rags are used for wiping, just blow dry.
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Re: Block cleaning

Post by treyrags »

vortecpro wrote: Sun Apr 20, 2014 11:19 am
SupStk wrote:Nothing cleans like HOT soapy water before final assembly. I use Dawn and scrub brushes in hot water. Final rinse with hot water pressure washer. WD-40 prevents alligatering before blowing dry.
X2
X3 with Tide powder
Matt80
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Re: Block cleaning

Post by Matt80 »

Thanks,
So are you totally submerging the block in soapy (Tide/Dawn) hot water?
What about tap water probably carrying particles that might stay in the galleries?

And Dawn is for dish, but Tide is for laundry. Correct?
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Re: Block cleaning

Post by SupStk »

No I don't submerge. The block is on an engine stand.
Concerning particles in the water, suppose its possible but run a gallon of water out of your tap into a glass jug. let it sit and see how many engine damaging particles accumulate. I'd think if any were left the blow dry would send 'em flying.
I'm actually more concerned about stuff coming out of the water jackets.
Monty Frerichs
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Re: Block cleaning

Post by rfoll »

Don't ever use 409, it will make everything rust.
So much to do, so little time...
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Re: Block cleaning

Post by pamotorman »

i scrubbed all my blocks with hot water, proper brushes and granular TIDE. sprayed the block with LPS-1 to prevent rusting
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