Hi Guys.
sorry for the silly question but who makes the white assembly lube ??
Its not ARP thread sealant but a white type of assembly lubricant like that is used on mains studs etc.
Thanks
Gary.
White assembly lube
Moderator: Team
-
airflowdevelop
- Guru
- Posts: 2011
- Joined: Tue Oct 12, 2004 1:19 pm
- Location: Dillsburg, PA
- Contact:
-
My427stang
- Expert
- Posts: 908
- Joined: Fri Sep 09, 2005 11:04 pm
- Location: Omaha, NE
- Contact:
-
Keith Morganstein
- Guru
- Posts: 5566
- Joined: Sun Feb 19, 2006 10:19 am
- Location: MA
Lubriplate makes the very low viscosity (for grease) white assy lube in the tube.
part# 105
http://www.lubriplate.com/Products/AutoMarine.htm
part# 105
http://www.lubriplate.com/Products/AutoMarine.htm
Automotive Machining, cylinder head rebuilding, engine building. Can't seem to quit 
I don't use white, I do use the black moly lube though, which is very similar.
I use that on bearings. I also put a small amount on skirts to keep from scuffing and oil the bores and rings with engine oil before assembly. I use the black moly on valve stems and guides unless I'm using cast iron guides in which case I use cam lube. I use cam lube on cams, rocker parts (balls and valve tips) and I use cam lube on timing chain sprockets and oil the chain.
I wonder what everyone else uses on bearings, rings, valves, etc?
Not trying to hijack the thread really, but the question seems answered, so we might as well continue the discussion.
SWB
I use that on bearings. I also put a small amount on skirts to keep from scuffing and oil the bores and rings with engine oil before assembly. I use the black moly on valve stems and guides unless I'm using cast iron guides in which case I use cam lube. I use cam lube on cams, rocker parts (balls and valve tips) and I use cam lube on timing chain sprockets and oil the chain.
I wonder what everyone else uses on bearings, rings, valves, etc?
Not trying to hijack the thread really, but the question seems answered, so we might as well continue the discussion.
SWB
The last couple of years i have been using the Synergen green assembly lube on just about everything. Bearings, valve stems, rocker/pushrod, wrist pins,ect..On solid camshafts i use the Isky revlube which i'm pretty sure is just a moly type break in lube. I don't typically put anything in the bores anymore after i clean them. You'll probably laugh, but on most motors i finish clean the bores with marvel mystery oil. On motors with very light ring packages i use the total seal break in stuff.
shawn
shawn
-
RMFheaders
If your talking about Lubriplate That stuff is for puting on backing plates
on drum brakes.When i was a kid.I used it on the pushrods on my TA 340 ands didn't get oil to the top for a long time.It squirted white grease out of the pushrods for quite a while.
I know for a fact when Larry Miner won the top fuel rebuild at Pomona .The motor that they ran had no oil pressure. They used Torco assembly lube .And it ran for the amount of time that it had to run without any oil what so ever through the motor.And I saw the bearings after and they looked fine.
on drum brakes.When i was a kid.I used it on the pushrods on my TA 340 ands didn't get oil to the top for a long time.It squirted white grease out of the pushrods for quite a while.
I know for a fact when Larry Miner won the top fuel rebuild at Pomona .The motor that they ran had no oil pressure. They used Torco assembly lube .And it ran for the amount of time that it had to run without any oil what so ever through the motor.And I saw the bearings after and they looked fine.
-
Ed-vancedEngines
Well if it is the Lubriplate in the big tube you are talking about. In my opinion it has no reason to be in any engine.
Way back in the early 1970's I tried using it for an assembly lube and it was junk in my engine. Had the filter bypass plugged off and after fireing up the new engine at appx 15 minumtes run time my oil pressure started fluctuating and dipping back. I killed the engine just knowing I had already lost it.
I called my maching shop and explained what it did. They asked me what did I use and I told them the white lubriplate assembly lube. They advised me to just chaange my oill filter and the engine should pick up pressure. I did and it had pressure. That Machine shop was and still is known as two names of "The Wop Shop/USA Racing Engines. Earl told me that all they ever use to pre-lube bearings with was a 50/50 mixture of STP and non detergent oil. I used that for years after that and had no more lubriplate problems. The Lubriplate stuck up my oil filter.
IN the past few years I finally have made a change and do love this product called Clevitte Bearing Guard. I use it for all pre-assemply lubrication except for my rings. I use the Total Seal Quick Seat and install dry according to instructions and the seal comes in faster and rings or cylinders do not glaze over with the Quick Seat. The Clevitte Bearing Guard is like a jelly until it gets warm then it fully mixes with oil.
Lubriplate? I use it for brakes on rubbing metal parts, hood hinges, door locks and hinges etc. Never inside one of my engines again.
Ed
Way back in the early 1970's I tried using it for an assembly lube and it was junk in my engine. Had the filter bypass plugged off and after fireing up the new engine at appx 15 minumtes run time my oil pressure started fluctuating and dipping back. I killed the engine just knowing I had already lost it.
I called my maching shop and explained what it did. They asked me what did I use and I told them the white lubriplate assembly lube. They advised me to just chaange my oill filter and the engine should pick up pressure. I did and it had pressure. That Machine shop was and still is known as two names of "The Wop Shop/USA Racing Engines. Earl told me that all they ever use to pre-lube bearings with was a 50/50 mixture of STP and non detergent oil. I used that for years after that and had no more lubriplate problems. The Lubriplate stuck up my oil filter.
IN the past few years I finally have made a change and do love this product called Clevitte Bearing Guard. I use it for all pre-assemply lubrication except for my rings. I use the Total Seal Quick Seat and install dry according to instructions and the seal comes in faster and rings or cylinders do not glaze over with the Quick Seat. The Clevitte Bearing Guard is like a jelly until it gets warm then it fully mixes with oil.
Lubriplate? I use it for brakes on rubbing metal parts, hood hinges, door locks and hinges etc. Never inside one of my engines again.
Ed
Ok I will try and get this thread back !
I dont care about bearing lubes, what I want to know is who or what is on all my threads in my PAS built GM ZZ 572 Engine that ran for for a couple of minutes ?
It is used everywhere you would use ARP assembly lube..
( the black moly paste)
Mains studs.
Head Bolts.
This %^#*$%* engine just seems to get worse and worse.
I dont care about bearing lubes, what I want to know is who or what is on all my threads in my PAS built GM ZZ 572 Engine that ran for for a couple of minutes ?
It is used everywhere you would use ARP assembly lube..
( the black moly paste)
Mains studs.
Head Bolts.
This %^#*$%* engine just seems to get worse and worse.
-
Ed-vancedEngines
There is an ARP Thread Sealer that is like a liquid white powder that dries to like a whate dray thick paste that is a pain in th erear to get out of internal threads. Not sure if that is what you are meaning.
I apologize for straying off course in my answers. Seems that I do that quite often but not really intentionally.
The way I look at every post or reply that is here and in other tech foroms is that they are consumed by the masses, not just the original poster. So while I am in the area of a particular subject, I do let myself maybe ramble on too far.
I actually was thinking that my reply for the most part did have to do with a whate assembly lube that I tried with negative results that some people swear by. Anything that can stop up a filter to me is not a good assembly lube.
I find that most crate motors are not clearanced for racing. Maybe that has something to do with the problem you have. I am not familiar with the builder PAS that you named.
Did your engine spin the bearings? Or What?
Ed
I apologize for straying off course in my answers. Seems that I do that quite often but not really intentionally.
The way I look at every post or reply that is here and in other tech foroms is that they are consumed by the masses, not just the original poster. So while I am in the area of a particular subject, I do let myself maybe ramble on too far.
I actually was thinking that my reply for the most part did have to do with a whate assembly lube that I tried with negative results that some people swear by. Anything that can stop up a filter to me is not a good assembly lube.
I find that most crate motors are not clearanced for racing. Maybe that has something to do with the problem you have. I am not familiar with the builder PAS that you named.
Did your engine spin the bearings? Or What?
Ed
-
Keith Morganstein
- Guru
- Posts: 5566
- Joined: Sun Feb 19, 2006 10:19 am
- Location: MA
I think that you are looking for loctite HD anti-seize.
this is what Arrow recomends for their rod bolts.
loctite number 51609 for 1oz
http://www.loctite.com/int_henkel/locti ... 4&layout=3
it is a heavy blackish paste
Geoff
duh! never mind this is black not white.
this is what Arrow recomends for their rod bolts.
loctite number 51609 for 1oz
http://www.loctite.com/int_henkel/locti ... 4&layout=3
it is a heavy blackish paste
Geoff
duh! never mind this is black not white.
Last edited by rightfoot on Sun Aug 20, 2006 5:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.
white lube
I have a tub full of white lube that is called just that "white lube" on the container it advertises multi-purpose lubricant, good for engine pre-lube, I 've used it to pre -lube wrist pins, and valves in new guides. It comes in a yellow tub with black writing available at any parts store.