Don Terrill’s Speed-Talk

I am having a bit of trouble finding a 7 degree lock single groove 11/32 valve lock recessed for lash cap. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Long time reader first time writer.

Are you looking for a "Super 7" type lock or the smaller, OE type? The stock type may not be available, but using a lock with a .050" reduced installed height may give you the clearance you're looking for.

Cedarmachine wrote:Are you looking for a "Super 7" type lock or the smaller, OE type? The stock type may not be available, but using a lock with a .050" reduced installed height may give you the clearance you're looking for.

Yeah, there just isn't enough thickness on a OEM type 7* to cut the recess. About the minimum valve tip to use a cap without a recess is .250. I have removed about .025 from a cap.

I take it you need the caps due to a geometry issue. Because I can't imagine a case where you would need lash caps and retainers that aren't 10* or Super 7*

I am having a rocker to retainer clearance issue. I am running a 1.5" dia spring on a vortec 906 stock
Chevy casting and stock valves. The lash cap was my last ditch effort to try to get the clearance before I have to make a major change with springs. I am running in a circle track class that requires the use of stamp steel rockers.

I can see where that spring with a stock rocker could cause a problem.
You could always change the retainers to Super 7 or 10*

Well I thought about that. And the cost of the swap would be about the same as going to a beehive style spring which would also solve the problem. I'm nearing the end of my budget on this build and was hoping for a cheap way out. I know its probably not gonna happen that easy.

jetmech727 wrote:Well I thought about that. And the cost of the swap would be about the same as going to a beehive style spring which would also solve the problem. I'm nearing the end of my budget on this build and was hoping for a cheap way out. I know its probably not gonna happen that easy.

If it was cheap and easy, chkdren would be doing this.

If you have plenty of cash on hand and are not on a budget, than you can afford to do it the wrong way. If that is not the case, you better fix/correct it the right way.

Describe the exact issue.

Clearance the rocker arm if the interference isn't alot.

Useing lash caps means a longer pushrod too, if your geometry is good already.

Strange Magic wrote:If you have plenty of cash on hand and are not on a budget, than you can afford to do it the wrong way. If that is not the case, you better fix/correct it the right way.

Describe the exact issue.

I'm in the process of correcting the problem. I don't have an unlimited budget but have every intention of assembling this eng correctly. Just like to look at all the options.

first question
is the rocker are geometry exactly right already?

wyrmrider wrote:first question
is the rocker are geometry exactly right already?

It is pretty close but not really able to get exact due to my clearance issue. I just drop the heads back off with my machine shop. They are going to swap out all the 7 degree stuff for the 10 degree stuff recessed for lash cap. Once i get the rocker retainer clearance i can get the geometry correct. Here are a couple little videos i took that might help to explain a little better.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4koIORPr_M

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQwUEGYSk6k


I had to hold the camera and turn the motor over so its pretty jerky

Unless you need to run stock rockers you should just buy some rollers. You also dont need 1.5 diam springs.

tsanchez wrote:Unless you need to run stock rockers you should just buy some rollers

". No roller cams, no roller rockers or roller tips. Factory cast iron OEM
heads, intake and blocks only." from the rule book.

The 1.5 maybe a bit over kill. At this point that is what i have to work with.