Having trouble getting rings to seat, I guess

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Dan Timberlake
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Re: Having trouble getting rings to seat, I guess

Post by Dan Timberlake »

wishicouldbe wrote:360, bored 60, forged flat top pistons, stock crank and rods, plasma moly top rings, edelbrock heads, comp cams BMT, rpm air gap...

Freshly built engine with about 100 miles, has lots of blow by, smoke out the exhaust when you give it part or full throttle but not at idle.. Is it the rings not seating or something else possibly.. If its the rings how can I get them to seat where it with quit smoking
Hi Wishicouldbe,

How did you clean the cylinders for assembly?
How is the power?
So there is blowby (out a breather?) AND smokey exhaust?
Could you describe the look and smell of the exhaust smoke?
Dual exhaust? Do both banks smoke ? (The rpm air gap has no exhaust crossover port, right?)
Have you looked at the individual ex ports as suggested by others?

Dan T
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Re: Having trouble getting rings to seat, I guess

Post by wishicouldbe »

Both banks smoke? I pretty positive it's the rings. I cleaned the cylinders with tranny fluid after honing them but where I screwed up is I didn't use the right grit hone it wasn't fine enough so now they aren't seating
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Re: Having trouble getting rings to seat, I guess

Post by Auctioneerhere »

wishicouldbe wrote:Both banks smoke? I pretty positive it's the rings. I cleaned the cylinders with tranny fluid after honing them but where I screwed up is I didn't use the right grit hone it wasn't fine enough so now they aren't seating
What grit did you use?
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Re: Having trouble getting rings to seat, I guess

Post by Cubic_Cleveland »

Stupid question, but it doesn't just have too much oil in it?
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Re: Having trouble getting rings to seat, I guess

Post by CNC BLOCKS »

Dan Timberlake wrote:
wishicouldbe wrote:360, bored 60, forged flat top pistons, stock crank and rods, plasma moly top rings, edelbrock heads, comp cams BMT, rpm air gap...

Freshly built engine with about 100 miles, has lots of blow by, smoke out the exhaust when you give it part or full throttle but not at idle.. Is it the rings not seating or something else possibly.. If its the rings how can I get them to seat where it with quit smoking
Hi Wishicouldbe,

How did you clean the cylinders for assembly?
How is the power?
So there is blowby (out a breather?) AND smokey exhaust?
Could you describe the look and smell of the exhaust smoke?
Dual exhaust? Do both banks smoke ? (The rpm air gap has no exhaust crossover port, right?)
Have you looked at the individual ex ports as suggested by others?

Dan T
One other area to look at is the valve guides and was a good positive seals used.

What hone and what stones were used ??

Was this block plate honed ??

I would perform a leak down test at TDC to see where you are at as far as ring seal.

If this is like any other block and if its a .060 over I see more cylinder distortion compared to a .030 over.
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Re: Having trouble getting rings to seat, I guess

Post by hodge »

x2 If this is a 360 mopar @ .060" the walls will be extremly thin
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Re: Having trouble getting rings to seat, I guess

Post by CNC BLOCKS »

hodge wrote:x2 If this is a 360 mopar @ .060" the walls will be extremly thin

I forgot to ask if the cylinders were sonic tested before going to that big of bore.
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Re: Having trouble getting rings to seat, I guess

Post by wishicouldbe »

Everything on the heads should be ok they're brand new edelbrock heads. As far as the block all that was done when it originally bored, it had a couple hours of run time and then it flattened the cam, so I pulled it back out and had completely all new plans for the engine and put different bearings and rings in it and the new heads.. I'm pretty sure the grit I used was a 240 grit when I rehoned it come to find out it should've been around 400 grit. Now I'm trying to find away to get them to seat without tearing it back apart replacing the rings and honing it with the correct grit. At the moment I have been running it without a Pcv valve.
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Re: Having trouble getting rings to seat, I guess

Post by hodge »

if yor engine took out cam lobes generally the material end up on the cyl walls and tears things apart. how long did it run for before tearing it apart to redo it
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Re: Having trouble getting rings to seat, I guess

Post by hodge »

sorry didn't read far enough but on the redo did you have to rebore
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Re: Having trouble getting rings to seat, I guess

Post by MadBill »

I'd say use conventional 5W-30 oil, keep the coolant temp high (not boiling) and run it as hard as you can for a few seconds at a time, backing right off in between WOTs. Repeat for as long as you can stand. It may or may not help, but it shouldn't make things any worse.

You might also talk to Total Seal and ask if there's any merit at this point (unlikely, unfortunately) in puffing a little of their Quickseat material into each cylinder through the plug hole at BDC. From their site http://www.totalseal.com/TechPage.aspx :
QUESTION:
What is Quickseat?
ANSWER:
Quickseat is our patented dry film cylinder wall assembly lube. It’s
quite unique in that it is a dry lube this helps to prevent glazing of the
rings from the over use of assembly oil. It also provides outstanding
lubrication during the critical initial start up period helping to prevent
ring scuffing and cylinder wall burnishing.
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Re: Having trouble getting rings to seat, I guess

Post by wishicouldbe »

I called total seals tech line, they said the 240 grit hone should be fine with the plasma moly rings, the said just try changing the oil and hooking up a Pcv and put more miles on it
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Re: Having trouble getting rings to seat, I guess

Post by Auctioneerhere »

Just a thought, but you did not line up the ring gaps on it did you?
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Re: Having trouble getting rings to seat, I guess

Post by wishicouldbe »

Yes I lined them all up according to the sheet that came with the rings
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Re: Having trouble getting rings to seat, I guess

Post by wishicouldbe »

Would having a windage tray make a difference
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