Broken ARP bolt

[CNC BLOCKS]

If it was stretched to much, it show up as a change in diameter presumably in the area where it broke.

If not, watch for circles on the surface of the break line and look for lines and were they originate from.

Anyway I can understand Carl's concerns with this.

Did you contact ARP ?

I did contact ARP and they did not seemed to concerned, They told me they sell 100s's of thousands of bolt and they do get calls once in a while that one has failed.

As long as its not a common problem I am fine with that.

I figured if there was a problem there would be other engine builders here seeing the same results.

they didnt seem concerned because they have call display

I am sure your number when it shows up at Dart they laugh at you when you called them and told them they could not machine lifter bores. If you forgot about that post I can find it for you.

Here is you post

ahhh, now all of a sudden some Dart blocks you have are .8436" what will they measure on monday? just let me know so i know which day to get a block from you

you have a very short memory there Carl. it was you who was whinning over in the hydro roller lifter thread about the Darts being .844" remember? then i said not according to Darts spec's, they are suppose to come .8427" to .8437", and Dart specifically notes that they will be on the small side to accomidate the difference in lifter o.d. specs and could need to be touched with a hone to get the required clearance....maybe you can post that link over here from Darts site

then out of the blue i get an email from Dart saying i can have the lifter bores to my spec..so to be 100% sure i said i have a .8415" lifter and i want .0015 clearance and require a .843" bore...they said no problem....thats what the email says.

i hate repeating myself but it seems like i have to with you. it looks like you have a problem talking to Dart because what they told me is totally different. maybe this will clear up what you and Dart dont seem to agree on,,,but why am i the middle man? if they actually are .844", then Dart should correct that and ship them to what there posted spec's are

ya, and nobody is using .842" lifters anymore...your funny.

Once again I see alot more lifter bores then you do ALLLLLLL the SHP blocks I see are to blue print size .8438 to 8443 the Little-M and Big-M I have here are right at .8436 which it to Darts spec Like I said all the Little-M, Big-M and Iron Eagle blocks I machine I have machine the lifter bores to either .875 or .904 At least 60% of the SHP blocks I see go to .904 also I machine alot of cam tunnels for either over size babbit or roller cam bearings. Are you set up to do that ???

gmrocket wrote dont forget, they contacted me and told me no problem...ok, its on the way maybe Dart doesnt want to talk to you

It looks like you contacted Dart and Dart did not contact you, It looks l ike you went cring to them. Also your not even Dart dealer or don't even have equipment to do lifter bore work and your arguing to a guy that blue prints block for a living and how far did this get you????

Also you may want to cry to World Products and GM because there lifter bores are to blue print size and you .841 lifers are not going to work let me know how far you get with them

[gmrocket]

so how does the washer look i like the part where after a dyno session, the head of the bolt, the washer and the rest of the bolt was in the pan..amazing how the head broke off, then the bolt unthreaded itself and fell out

[cthom1969]

Carl i sent you a pm about a part i need

[CNC BLOCKS]

so how does the washer look i like the part where after a dyno session, the head of the bolt, the washer and the rest of the bolt was in the pan..amazing how the head broke off, then the bolt unthreaded itself and fell out

I would imagine once the head and washer was laying in the pan the what was going to keep the bolt from unscewing and falling into the pan ???? It was on the dyno for an hour and half.

So whats your point ????

Are you still calling Dart about ther lifter bore work ??? You surely made an ass out yourself on that call and still are LOL.


If you what to argue with the customer you can do that as well as he was there a saw everything.

[CNC BLOCKS]

Carl i sent you a pm about a part i need

I did get your PM and will get you a price on Monday.

[monte442]

So much for trying to inform people of a potential problem.

[CNC BLOCKS]

So much for trying to inform people of a potential problem.

Monte good to hear from you !! The winter seems pretty harsh on you guys in CT. Hang in there another month or so.

There are only 2 cry babies here both don't even have a shop LOL. I should send them crying towels

So far with the responses from other and PM's I think its a fluke and I am not to worried at this point.

[Skylor]

So that means you will leave the other arp main bolts in

I would be temped to change the whole set if one bolt failed

[af2]

So that means you will leave the other arp main bolts in

I would be temped to change the whole set if one bolt failed

I think the hardware might mean all of them.

posting.php?mode=quote&f=1&p=416735

[MrBo]

Could those ARP bolts been Chinese counterfeit bolts?

Hey Carl, what lube did you use and what was torque spec provided with the bolts?

Also from earlier: The ARP bolts in my World Block have about an inch of thread engagement without a washer.

[Dan Timberlake]

I think I'd subject the surviving bolts to 2 or 3 torque, untorque cycles to see if I could provoke a problem, then mag partiocle (wet method fluoresecent, magnetizing with a coiled wire) or dye-pen (Zyglo preferred, Spot check acceptable) the under head areas looking for "indications."

then before final assembly and sending the engine into service remove them, dye pen a new set, then install them and subject THEM to 3 torque/untorque cycles, and if they survive, final assemble.

ASTM and even MIL specs allow some pretty significant "indications" of forging laps and seams if they are oriented a certain way. circumferential indications in the under-head fillet must be clean.

Nothing against Direct Connection parts but.....A long time ago we were rebuilding a set of 8 Hemi rods with new Direct Connection bolts. After the prep work was done and the bolts torqued they were put on a tray and left in the honing area. The next morning several bolt heads had popped off. The customer bought a new set of some aftermarket for us to install.

[hodge]

I think I'd subject the surviving bolts to 2 or 3 torque, untorque cycles to see if I could provoke a problem, then mag partiocle (wet method fluoresecent, magnetizing with a coiled wire) or dye-pen (Zyglo preferred, Spot check acceptable) the under head areas looking for "indications."

then before final assembly and sending the engine into service remove them, dye pen a new set, then install them and subject THEM to 3 torque/untorque cycles, and if they survive, final assemble.

ASTM and even MIL specs allow some pretty significant "indications" of forging laps and seams if they are oriented a certain way. circumferential indications in the under-head fillet must be clean.

Nothing against Direct Connection parts but.....A long time ago we were rebuilding a set of 8 Hemi rods with new Direct Connection bolts. After the prep work was done and the bolts torqued they were put on a tray and left in the honing area. The next morning several bolt heads had popped off. The customer bought a new set of some aftermarket for us to install.

now thats scary heads popping off. sounds like some girl may have been playing with them LOL

[wyrmrider]

Strange on the Direct Connection Bolts
back in the day they were SPS and went into most all my rods

[hodge]

I couldn't remember that but I think the sps bolts were about the best thing going I've got engines still running with them in.

[Dan Timberlake]

Strange on the Direct Connection Bolts
back in the day they were SPS and went into most all my rods

My gettin' brown 1979 DC book shows 3 types of Hemi rod bolts.
P4120069 were 7/16" "hardness checked"
P4120070 7/16" "SPS type"
P4120082 1/2" "SPS type for NASCAR forgings" $145 Jobber - Google finds this number on some Russian website "chrysler.lacars.ru/partslist368.html" copyright 2010



$10,150 Jobber for a Volare or Aspen "kit car" complete with body, small block with W2 heads. "all that's missing is rubber, paint and gas"