Been following this closely. I have trying for some time now to use the stock knock sensor (a new one, not a 20+ yr-old one) to tune the spark on my Chrysler 2.5 SOHC 8v 4-cyl turbo engine. It doesn't seem to be working well
It runs fairly good, and should be fairly close, but at higher boost levels (15+psi) it seems pretty off. I am running the stock computer system, but I have a tuning program for it that allows me to change anything and everything, so it is essentially a programmable EMS now, with some extra features. One of these is the able to turn on the CEL when the computer is pulling timing due to knock. I'll refer to this as the "knock light"
It seems that to make it pull properly at 18psi-higher, I have to have the timing at a point that the knock light pretty much stays on. Basically it'll come on around 3200-3500 right as it hits full boost, go out till around 4500 then come back on. I have tried pulling timing down in those spots and pulled a lot of timing out from boost, and to some extent it would stay out but it is very lazy up up, basically it's done pulling at 5k. I have down to where it has pretty much 1* total timing at 20+psi when it spools.
The computer determines knock by reading the voltage output of the knock sensor (0-5v) and comparing it to a knock threshold table. If the voltage is over the set amount for that rpm, it pulls timing. I can adjust this threshold and have done so, as the factory set it pretty conservative to guard against people fiddling with boost, bad gas, etc etc. Also, stock boost on these engine was never more than 12psi even on factory upgrade computers, most of the time it was 8-10psi. But, it seems like I have had to change it a lot, almost to the point that sometimes I feel like it's really not even effective any more.
So I guess my question is, at twice the factory boost level, is the stock knock sensor even worth trying to use? I have thought about just disabling it and tuning by ear like old school, but that just seems like going backwards. And I know that if it's bad enough to hear, it's pretty bad already lol. I know knock can occur w/o being able to hear it.
Specs on the engine are 2.5L, 3.44 bore x 4.09 stroke, 8.0:1 compression (forged pistons), SOHC 8v swirl chamber head, ported stock exhaust manifold, stock Garret T3 turbo w/ a .48 AR turbine, 3" exhaust, water-to-air intercooling. Always run 93oct pump gas. I can post screenshots of my timing and knock tables if needed.