which tunnel ram and carbs should i buy

[Robert Kane]

Terry, that TR will push the torque peak up 200 - 400 rpm and pull like a mofo on the top end! Have you asked Tom what he thinks about a manifold? A good set of 4150's about 760 -780 cfm each (actual) should work nice with annular boosters. If I read correctly, your running 37 deg. total timing? You might wanna back it down with the TR in the upper rpm.
In a conversation with Jenkins we actually talked about the 331 engines and how the 4412's were much better than the 1050's which would lose about 75 - 150 rpm on the shifts. The man had a gift when it came to tuning. Hard to believe sometimes that he's not there.

Robert.

[Jackie]

Good Evening. I'm a new kid (62 Yrs young) posting on this site. I would do the following for more cost effective performance.

1. Increase stall 800 to 1000 RPMS.
2. Replace that stock 1.76. gear with a 1.80 straight cut gear.
3. Increase the tire size, taller tire.
4. If that carb is a true 950 Hp, then I would send it to QFT and have Marv open up the main body some, maybe 1.450 or 1.475.
5. If money isn't a problem then I would go with the tunnel Ram.
6. But, I would use two vacuum secondary carbs. 600 or 750's.
7. Now the reason for the secondary carbs is they will not open completely while on the two step. Then once your under way they will open.
8. "TUNER" on this board has a pretty good handle on vacuum secondary carbs." MADBILL" too.

Good Luck

[nyesgym]

Thanks, for more info, alot to think about and do

best vega wheelie.jpg

[fdicrasto]

I do not know what reason there would be to use a pair of vacuum secondary carbs on a tunnel ram, WOT launch on a tranny brake with a 2-step. Not to say it isn't okay for a street/strip app. but this Vega is a race car and my impression is that Terry wants that small block to go as fast as he can without changing his basic 421" combo too much. Also my question would be, how much does it cost for a straight cut 1.80 planetary these days? They used to be pretty costly and I am not sure what gains would be made over the 1.76 to justify in this case. A long time ago I went that route,complete tranny from a well known tranny company in a BBC top sportsman car. Maybe 2 hundredths but only 30 passes before the planetary let go. The factory V8 trusty 1.76 went back in and I never broke that planetary in 3 years. I know they now have bullet proof stuff but it ain't cheap. Phil D.

[Bob Hollinshead]

Good Evening. I'm a new kid (62 Yrs young) posting on this site. I would do the following for more cost effective performance.

1. Increase stall 800 to 1000 RPMS.
2. Replace that stock 1.76. gear with a 1.80 straight cut gear.
3. Increase the tire size, taller tire.
4. If that carb is a true 950 Hp, then I would send it to QFT and have Marv open up the main body some, maybe 1.450 or 1.475.
5. If money isn't a problem then I would go with the tunnel Ram.
6. But, I would use two vacuum secondary carbs. 600 or 750's.
7. Now the reason for the secondary carbs is they will not open completely while on the two step. Then once your under way they will open.
8. "TUNER" on this board has a pretty good handle on vacuum secondary carbs." MADBILL" too.

Good Luck

Jackie, do you think two 750 vacume secondary carbs would open completely and fast enough?

[bigjoe1]

Inj actual dragstrip testing, I have seen the 4224 carbs ba as much as four to five tenths quicker, and faster top end speeds as well.


JOE SHERMAN RACING

[nyesgym]

My way of thinking on the vacuum carbs, if stead of a huge amount of air and fuel coming in at 4500 rpms,that i do not need, the vacuum carbs let the amount of air and fuel coming in at a better rate.and be there when i need it at the higher rpms. I mean i have heard this better for from Rick lefever, out of Ca. [ my cousin] but I never tried it. I just hate to send the money on those carbs and then half to turn around and buy other carbs to see which is faster. and of course all the testing on dyno and at the drag strip. Thats why I am asking you guys, trying to save money.
This I can tell you for sure, I put my car on a dyno, we tested it with a air cleaner on it. it tested 525.87 hp at the rear wheels. I took off the aircleaner and put on a bird catcher and made another run on the dyno, NO other changes. 518.47 hp [ less horse power] ok now listen to this. next day, went to cecil county drag way, same air !. 1st 2 runs air cleaner on, 8.92 and 8.88 , ok then I put the bird cather on [ no air cleaner- on dyno it said less hp remember} 3rd run 8.78 ! 60' went from 1.24 to 1.23 .. now figure that out. well i have ,,,just because the dyno says you have more horse power ,does not mean that makes it faster down the 1/4 mile

[fdicrasto]

My way of thinking on the vacuum carbs, if stead of a huge amount of air and fuel coming in at 4500 rpms,that i do not need, the vacuum carbs let the amount of air and fuel coming in at a better rate.and be there when i need it at the higher rpms. I mean i have heard this better for from Rick lefever, out of Ca. [ my cousin] but I never tried it. I just hate to send the money on those carbs and then half to turn around and buy other carbs to see which is faster. and of course all the testing on dyno and at the drag strip. Thats why I am asking you guys, trying to save money.
This I can tell you for sure, I put my car on a dyno, we tested it with a air cleaner on it. it tested 525.87 hp at the rear wheels. I took off the aircleaner and put on a bird catcher and made another run on the dyno, NO other changes. 518.47 hp [ less horse power] ok now listen to this. next day, went to cecil county drag way, same air !. 1st 2 runs air cleaner on, 8.92 and 8.88 , ok then I put the bird cather on [ no air cleaner- on dyno it said less hp remember} 3rd run 8.78 ! 60' went from 1.24 to 1.23 .. now figure that out. well i have ,,,just because the dyno says you have more horse power ,does not mean that makes it faster down the 1/4 mile

Terry, I guarantee that you will regret vacuum secondary carbs on your race car assuming you can do a back to back test like you did with your air cleaner and bird catcher. Don't waste your money there, talk to some experienced drag racers or find someone that would let you try different carb combo's. I believe Joe is 100% correct and though I believe you need more than 4224's at least he can vouch for the fact that there is a ton of hp using RACE carbs over STREET carbs. Dyno and race track tunes are rarely the same and I wonder how much more air was available to your engine at the track with the bird catcher as opposed to an air cleaner, especially at top end. I would be curious to see the mph difference on the back to back passes. Mph is the real hp calculator at the track. Phil D.

[Robert Kane]

I want to edit my earlier post. I was talking of the 4224 carbs not the 4412 that I post. (brain fart)

Robert.

[nyesgym]

Well, I bought a sheet metal intake, could not pass it up. $350.00, its kind of ruff, but with my grinder and polisher, I can make it work. Pin it in place and then match the ports.. I like doing that kind of stuff anyway. Time I have, money not alot of. and going to go with 2- 950cfm quick fuel carbs, since i already have one, it will be the cheapest way to go and a starting point. want to losen up my converter to 7000, put 32" tires on. Thats alot of changes, that should ,i hope get me to about 8.60 ,will let you know

[BrazilianZ28Camaro]

... and going to go with 2- 950cfm quick fuel carbs, since i already have one, it will be the cheapest way to go and a starting point. want to losen up my converter to 7000, put 32" tires on.

Thanks God.

Keep us posted about how she did.

[nyesgym]

Got a quick question, this sheet metal intake, the inside of it and runners have been painted black, its is very smooth !, should i leave that be or glass bead it for better mix ?

[fdicrasto]

Well, I bought a sheet metal intake, could not pass it up. $350.00, its kind of ruff, but with my grinder and polisher, I can make it work. Pin it in place and then match the ports.. I like doing that kind of stuff anyway. Time I have, money not alot of. and going to go with 2- 950cfm quick fuel carbs, since i already have one, it will be the cheapest way to go and a starting point. want to losen up my converter to 7000, put 32" tires on. Thats alot of changes, that should ,i hope get me to about 8.60 ,will let you know

WOW, $350 dollars for a sheet metal intake. Do you know who made it? You will not lose a dime on this and if you let Quick Fuel set the carbs up for your app, you will be one happy fella as long as you follow up on the rest of the mods. I only question whether you need to go to a 7000 stall convertor and depending on the size convertor you now have,if yours can be loosened that much.You might think about another used convertor that might give you some flexibility. Almost forgot; I would try some tapered 4 hole spacers on this. Canton has some at super reasonable prices on theirs. I would be very interested to see your results. Phil D.

[af2]

Got a quick question, this sheet metal intake, the inside of it and runners have been painted black, its is very smooth !, should i leave that be or glass bead it for better mix ?

Any way you could post pictures? I hate the idea of any paint where fuel and oil are used. Especially fuel....

[nyesgym]

you were reading my mind, I have a tapered spacer on now, was wondering if i should run 2 . and I will take some pictures of this intake and post