how to "fool the track?"

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Re: how to "fool the track?"

Postby randy331 » Fri Aug 17, 2012 5:38 pm

There is no fooling the track, just like there is no fooling a dyno. You can come up with foolish numbers on a dyno, but that doesn't mean you fooled it, it means it fooled you.

There are fools that use both, and say things like "my engine makes 650 hp",..... yet it can't get a 2800 Lb car into the 9s in the 1/4 mile???

There seems to be a lot more consistent et timers from track to track, than there is HP numbers from dyno to dyno. :lol:

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Re: how to "fool the track?"

Postby John Wallace » Fri Aug 17, 2012 7:25 pm

The funny thing is, that it makes more sense reversed!


I agree with Hanzeng.

It is easier to make a engine appear to have more HP, but it pretty hard to make a big gain in ET at the track.

Going back to the finish line lights being higher, I know an old Stock class racer that 'fooled' the competitor/track.
(long time ago)

He had a rubber chicken with a rope tied around it's neck.
It would sit inside his front bumper area.
When he got toward the finish line (and needed the extra ET) he'd slam his brakes on just enough to where the chicken would drop down and swing in front of his car, triggering the light.

:D

Dave Kohler may remember him?

Anyway, they made it illegal to have anything like that on a car.
They also made it illegal to have a long front overhang on a vehicle so the competitor couldn't tell where the front was.
(that triggered the light)

:)
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Re: how to "fool the track?"

Postby Unkl Ian » Fri Aug 17, 2012 7:35 pm

Staggered wheel base, move one front wheel forward.
Gives more roll out in the beams.
you can leave earlier with out Red Lighting.
Just because you never studied the Laws of Physics,
doesn't mean they won't try to kick your ass.
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Re: how to "fool the track?"

Postby justahoby » Fri Aug 17, 2012 7:52 pm

bigjoe1 wrote:One thing that comes to mind that I hear alot, is that the cars of today are MUCH heavier than they were when I was a kid. I see guys with 4000, even 4200 pound Chevelles. My 1970 Chevelle was 3700 lbs when I got it brand new, and after I removed everything that was not nessasarry, I got it down to about 3500 pounds.I remember as a youngster, everyone would run their car accross the scales at the local dragstrip. To me, telling everyone that your car in real heavy ( when it is not ) is one way of tricking the drag strip into thinking your car is faster ( or has more HP ) because the times it car turn at the inflated weight. Just food for thought.


JOE SHERMAN RACING

Some thought, My 69 c10 chevrolet was 3600 on title, 3700 on texas registration (they look at a worn out book at the DMV and told me the original title I had from the first owner was wrong on the weight :roll: ).
Here are some other cars.
86 S10 blazer 3600
Wifes 2005 Honda Accord 2 door 3250.
4 door version 3550
A 2011 full size half ton is Around 4600-4700.
Cars began to get heavier due to safety standards/ laws. Now you got Hondas within 800 lbs of older pickups.

Now for fooling the track, i just measured mine a 1/4 mile too short :lol:
Student. TSTC, Waco, TX
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Re: how to "fool the track?"

Postby randy331 » Fri Aug 17, 2012 10:19 pm

John Wallace wrote:[quGoing back to the finish line lights being higher, I know an old Stock class racer that 'fooled' the competitor/track.
(long time ago)

He had a rubber chicken with a rope tied around it's neck.
It would sit inside his front bumper area.
When he got toward the finish line (and needed the extra ET) he'd slam his brakes on just enough to where the chicken would drop down and swing in front of his car, triggering the light.


So unless this chicken was alive, and able to run faster than the car was running, how would that help et?

If the car was going 200 mph, at the VERY BEST the chicken would maintain the 200 mph and put it at the finish line at the same time the cars front end would have if he didn't hit the brakes.

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Re: how to "fool the track?"

Postby cspeier » Fri Aug 17, 2012 10:30 pm

A Comp car can run faster than the hp available because of all the killer LW and friction aided components.

Most of the issues I see with cars not running the ET the dyno says they have is because their race cars are bound up, hard rolling, sleds..
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Re: how to "fool the track?"

Postby grant6395 » Sat Aug 18, 2012 12:27 am

cspeier wrote:A Comp car can run faster than the hp available because of all the killer LW and friction aided components.

Most of the issues I see with cars not running the ET the dyno says they have is because their race cars are bound up, hard rolling, sleds..

i agree.scenario..my 2140 lb comp car.liberty 5 speed.sbf dynoed 970hp .dts dyno.7.20/188.9 mph..try and compute that with a speed calculator,or a bullshit book.doesnt work.probably sais 1150 hp or so....efficiant car,not gobs of power.
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Re: how to "fool the track?"

Postby cspeier » Sat Aug 18, 2012 9:55 am

I had a local come by last year with a 9" Ford w/5.14 gear. It was brutal and tight as hell. I had a third member set up with a Dewco 5.14 ring gear. You could wing the yoke and it would just spin. Anyway, he found .30 and 4 mph by just swapping the center section. He wanted to buy it until I told him a price! LOL..
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Re: how to "fool the track?"

Postby MrBo » Sun Aug 19, 2012 2:17 pm

The car I now run at the drags has a front spoiler/air dam right from the factory.
If I drop the front and rear of the car a few inches the engine seems to be making about 30 or more HP on power/speed calculators from the trap mph. Go figure.
It is way too hard to get the car on & off the trailer though. I need air bags or something like those hydraulic low riders. :)
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Re: how to "fool the track?"

Postby hymey » Mon Aug 20, 2012 12:54 am

Pontiac G8s (VE commodore Holden In Aus) weigh 4100 pound with no driver then idiots put 300 pound stereos in them and heavy 20 inch rims and wonder why they dont mph lol.
Hyd rollers are for GIRLS---The higher the rocker ratio, the sooner the valves will float

JOE SHERMAN RACING
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Re: how to "fool the track?"

Postby levisnteeshirt » Mon Aug 20, 2012 1:21 am

read about a car in the 70's with a straight front axle , they mounted the axle at a slight angle , so one tire would be 1 in ahead of the other
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