Lifter Choice

[bigjoe1]

I use the Comp Cams solid roller lifters in everything, and dont have any problems.I do give all my engine customers instructions on cold start up procedure, and tell them to avoid letting the engine Idle slow, especially when it is still cold. Make it idle as fast as you can stand too.


JOE SHERMAN RACING ENGINES

[raceman14]

If you have the engine out of the car, replace the oil pump with a HV55 and put in the pink spring or whatever they use for high pressure. Use a good oil like Valvoline VR-1 and let it eat ( I like 20-50 ).

Make sure your retainers fit nice and tight on the springs and the springs fit nice and tight on the spring pad, guide sleeve or spring cup. With low spring pressure it is critical that you don't have any extra slop in the system.

If it is possible, run a 10* lock vs 7* although that would require a change in retainers and locks if you don't already have them it is super cheap insurance and I sell them for like $99set, you can find them cheaper but I don't know how good they would be???

Whatever your lash is, run it to the tight end and watch it every 500 miles until you are comfortable it is not moving on you.

I have not had a lifter failure with comps in 100+ engines over the last 5 years. I have also had great luck with Crowers and Jesels. The materials now days is so good you only kill roller lifters if there is an oiling problem or if you nick a cam with a rod or something unusual.

[gmrocket]

how can anyone say for sure if we dont know the specs? i've run 400 lb beehives with a solid roller at .600" and spun it to 6800...steel valves&1.65 rr

[Rannos]

how can anyone say for sure if we dont know the specs? i've run 400 lb beehives with a solid roller at .600" and spun it to 6800...steel valves&1.65 rr

The specs on my cam are .585I .591E and 248*I and 254*E @.050. Intake centerline is 106* and Lobe Separation is 110* with exhaust opening 80* BBDc and closing 32* ATDC and intake opening 37* BTDC and closing 69* ABDC.The Lift values are before lash.

I dont plan on spinning this motor all that high, maybe 6000-6500rpm. The enigine is just a 10.2 to 1 383 with a set of RHS 220's straight out of the box. I feel the lifters I have are adequate for this setup but like I mentioned before I lack exprience using solid rollers on anything street driven. Is there a certain oil I should run? I normally run Mobile One Synthetic straight 30, but have had a few suggest running 20w50 conventional. Anyway I want to thank everyone for their information and help. I am glad to have found a forum where more expprienced and professionial builders dont mind helping out a novice like myself.

Thanks,
Jay

[gmrocket]

whats the advertised duration so we can see how aggressive the lobe is. do you have the lobe part #'s?

[lun40119]

If you set it up right......it will last......Carl, makes great points about attention to detail on the lifter bores. Watch out for the "advertisements" in this thread.........

I put 6000miles on my small block last year with a cam that has .866/.848 lift. It is running 9.70's NA at 3600lbs, and completed Drag Week last year, without ever cracking loose an adjuster.

Pay attention to detail when setting it up..............and it won't matter which quality lifter you choose. My top choices are GS Ultra Pro, or Morel........

[Rannos]

whats the advertised duration so we can see how aggressive the lobe is. do you have the lobe part #'s?

The Advertised duration is 286*I and 292*E. It is a Comp Cams and the part # is 12-772-8 and here is a link to the cam specs.

http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam- ... d=307&sb=2

Thats all the info I have on it. The cam card matches exactly what is listed on Comps web site. I am also using 1.52 rockers. I used the 977-16 spring they recommend and they all set up between 1.848" and 1.851".

Thanks,
Jay

[Caprimaniac]

The lobes on that cam are quite wide and have kind ramps... The springs are matched to the lobes and soft cam material and will work with comp or any other "good quality" lifter.

The springs are exactly the ones i rode on my 302W with .613" lift and even wider lobes than on your Chevy stick. Will take 7000 rpm even with steel retainers and Edelbrock 2.05 valves. Although, it would be interesting to do some experimentation with these cams & springs on the spintron....

If you up the spring pressure you might damage the cam 8as stated earlier....). I have not inspected my cam closely after i installed 187lbs seat springs on it & ran for a year. I might take a closer look and see if I can find any damage, small or large... I have som pics of the lobes from before and can take some nnow for comparison.

RS

[Caprimaniac]

Cam after 3 years of 150 lbs spring. Street, autocross, track.


I rebuilt the top end. Same head 6 valves. New rockers & lifters. Springs uprated to 187lbs on the seat. After this I ran 1 year with more track use than ever. Then I ran it dry in the corners at the track and took engine apart with damage...Although not to the top end.


The images might not tell you much. It seems to me that after running a year with 25% uprated valve spring, some of the previous discoloration has gone. Maybe due to the lifter following the lobe more closely?
I've been looking out for pit- formation on the closing side of the lobes, but have found no real alarming marks. Although... Here's a lobe with something maybe going on...


I'm not by any means an expert. Hopefully some more experienced builders and cam techs will comment.

Regards
RS

[F-BIRD'88]

Hand oil the lifters and the roller rockers on install.

Set the valve lash cold .004" tighter than the cam card spec.
As advised keep the engine idle speed up.

Inspect the valve lash after about a week of normal driving, once you get it all run in.
+/- .002" lash change is nothing, you are just looking for a big change.

Most people set the lash too loose.

Inspect the roller rocker arm and lifters bearings once a year, for wear.
I consider this normal routine maintenance on any roller cam- roller rocker valve train.
You should too.

Most problems with roller lifters are excessive valve lash and trying to run a max full race only valvetrain on a street car. Many people bite off more than they can chew.

Once it is all broke in and all you should be able to go all season
without touching the valves. At that point it should only need minor lash tough up on a few cylinders.
Its a street roller cam. Its designed to run on the street and be relatively easy on the valvetrain.

A big lash change indicates excessive wear. If the valve lash closes up significantly on 1 or more valves it indicates valve seat pounding or valve keepers are pulling.
valve seats get pounded by excessive heat (detonation) or excessive valve lash.
Pulling keepers indicates excessive rpm, crappy retainers or springs moving on spring pockets.

Remember if you set the lash cold, you check it cold.

Comp has a cool SBC rev kit you can consider. This keeps the roller wheels in contact with the cam.

Just like the roller bearings in your driveshaft U joints, roller lifters and roller rocker arms don't last forever. The key is proper routine inspection. And learning how to set the lash and lock the polylocks correctly. The poly locks don't last forever either. You will know you have done it wrong when you get just far enough away from home that its too far to walk. And one will back off on you.
but once you figure out how to do it right its like riding a bike. You never forget and won't have valve lash problems or street roller lifter problems.
Again, most people set the lash too loose.

[AMorrison]

I should be more clear that the truck will hardly be street driven. It is being built for local index and bracket racing but will make the rare trip to local car shows and maybe once a year drive to work, about 40miles round trip. Other then that it will be at the track. I guess my real question would be at what amount of street use is the HIPPO, Endure-X or EZ roll lifters the way to go? If I need them now I can set aside the funds but if it is not something I need to worry about those funds will be a good portion of getting my new rearend finished. Thanks for any and all input.

Thanks,
Jay

That Comp cam is extremely mild for what you're doing. No need to spend too much money here, just a good set of lifters, adequate springs and a little TLC to keep everything happy.

[Caprimaniac]

That Comp cam is extremely mild for what you're doing. No need to spend too much money here, just a good set of lifters, adequate springs and a little TLC to keep everything happy.

What's adequate springs for this cam? That's what I'm trying to figure. Should he stick with the 150 lbs seat adviced by Comp, or should he move up? In case, to what?

[yobin67]

I have the 300 magnum roller from Comp in my car. Same springs as you also. This shortblock was built many years ago and has many street miles as well as dragstrip passes. I have never had any lifter issues.I took the top end apart a few weeks ago to check everything out and like every other year,I found nothing to worry about and put it back together. I pull 7000 RPM,s with ease and have ran a best of 11.31 in a 3400lb. camaro with a little 10.25 to 1 355. This is the cam Im running http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam- ... d=303&sb=2

[Alan Roehrich]

In no way would I ever run a solid roller on a cast core. Ever. A mild hydraulic roller, in a low performance daily driver, maybe.

There are all sorts of things a few people seem to get away with. Most people who try it have expensive catastrophic failures.

For every person who tries it and gets away with it, there are at least a couple who end up with much less than satisfactory results.

A steel core, especially in a small block or big block Chevy, does not cost that much more.