intake welding question

[Belgian1979]

I would need to weld on my intake. That is : i need to wel a small square bar of alu to the top of the port in order to get a larger sealing surface since the roof got rather thin after matching the port to the heads. I would also need to weld in some material on the sides of the port in the intake.

Would this warp the flange of the manifold ?

[barnym17]

Probably need to surface it after welding.How thin is it?

[Belgian1979]

Probably need to surface it after welding.How thin is it?

4-5 mm

[Dave Koehler]

Unless you made a window I don't think that thickness is a problem. Do you envision cracking it when tightened down?

Oh, wait. Are you talking about welding to the outside edges to get more flange/gasket area? If so, then yes the gasket surface will need to be surfaced. Been there.

[Belgian1979]

Unless you made a window I don't think that thickness is a problem. Do you envision cracking it when tightened down?

Oh, wait. Are you talking about welding to the outside edges to get more flange/gasket area? If so, then yes the gasket surface will need to be surfaced. Been there.

Yes the top on the outside above the ports. I had to raise the ports some.

And then several sides on the inside of the ports. I didn't window them, but the difference is some 2 mm on those sides.

[JoePorting]

You'll have to resurface the intake surfaces and the carb pad. The intake surface will probably warp by around .015" and the carb pad will probably warp by .005". If you don't resurface the carb pad, you might end up with a sticking throttle situation.

[enigma57]

Ditto that. Do your welding and then machine all your gasket seating surfaces to true them. Got wild and crazy with an old Offy Pacesetter 4 carb intake some years back (late 1950s vintage with 283 sized ports). Needed to match it to ports on a set of Victor Jr. heads that had been extensively reworked. Raised the Offy port rooves by 3/8" and had to weld build up the sides of the port walls as well to gain sufficient gasket sealing surface. Still have this intake and may further modify it and use it for that 'last build' before I get too old to drive the '57.

Best regards,

Harry

[rustbucket79]

I haven't seen bars welded on the intake, but I have seen that area built up with welding beads. You'll need to have the flanges surfaced to true up the blocks/welding beads to the rest of the flange.

[rookie]

Any one try this?
http://www.aluminumrepair.com/video_new.asp

[enigma57]

Interesting process. I'll have to check this out.

Thanks,

Harry

[wfolarry]

That stuff is like solder it doesn't work as well as they lead you to believe. I had a salesman come by the shop 10 years ago & give me the pop can demonstration. I then gave him a head to fix a stripped out hole. He couldn't get it to work. When he told me how much it cost I told him I can get it at the hardware store on the corner for 1/2 that. He went down there & bought some because he had to pay for the rod himself that he was using for the demonstrations.

[rookie]

That stuff is like solder it doesn't work as well as they lead you to believe. I had a salesman come by the shop 10 years ago & give me the pop can demonstration. I then gave him a head to fix a stripped out hole. He couldn't get it to work. When he told me how much it cost I told him I can get it at the hardware store on the corner for 1/2 that. He went down there & bought some because he had to pay for the rod himself that he was using for the demonstrations.

This stuff wasn't around until 2004 so you may have seen the products that were around before that they talk about here...
(Not to be confused with Alumaloy, Alumaweld, Alumarod, Durafix, Aladdin 3 in 1, or any other first generation rods most of them consisting of 3 alloys. HTS-2000 is a unique stand-alone product, Comprised of nine alloys that cost more to produce and through exhaustive testing led to this superior advanced technology. HTS-2000 has an elongation of 10% in 2 inches (rather than the standard 3% like the first generation rods listed above) which makes HTS-2000 3 times more flexible and stronger than any of its competitors. It also easily penetrates past impurities that lay below the metal's surface which may be impossible to penetrate with competitors materials. Also unlike the first generation rods HTS-2000 does not require steel or special cleaning brushes. All of this means not only a more expensive manufacturing process with new technology but also superior quality (this is the best brazing rod you can buy anywhere at any price) direct to the customer, see our testimonials and video and it will be easy for you to choose HTS-2000 as your #1 choice)
I just ordered some so I will let you know if it's worth a crap or not.

[Belgian1979]

That stuff is like solder it doesn't work as well as they lead you to believe. I had a salesman come by the shop 10 years ago & give me the pop can demonstration. I then gave him a head to fix a stripped out hole. He couldn't get it to work. When he told me how much it cost I told him I can get it at the hardware store on the corner for 1/2 that. He went down there & bought some because he had to pay for the rod himself that he was using for the demonstrations.

This stuff wasn't around until 2004 so you may have seen the products that were around before that they talk about here...
(Not to be confused with Alumaloy, Alumaweld, Alumarod, Durafix, Aladdin 3 in 1, or any other first generation rods most of them consisting of 3 alloys. HTS-2000 is a unique stand-alone product, Comprised of nine alloys that cost more to produce and through exhaustive testing led to this superior advanced technology. HTS-2000 has an elongation of 10% in 2 inches (rather than the standard 3% like the first generation rods listed above) which makes HTS-2000 3 times more flexible and stronger than any of its competitors. It also easily penetrates past impurities that lay below the metal's surface which may be impossible to penetrate with competitors materials. Also unlike the first generation rods HTS-2000 does not require steel or special cleaning brushes. All of this means not only a more expensive manufacturing process with new technology but also superior quality (this is the best brazing rod you can buy anywhere at any price) direct to the customer, see our testimonials and video and it will be easy for you to choose HTS-2000 as your #1 choice)
I just ordered some so I will let you know if it's worth a crap or not.

After reading it all here, I had Mike put a tube of JB Weld in my order. I will probably epoxy the bar on the top of the flange while keeping it level to the flange, using 2 screws to keep it in place. After my ordeal with the engine, I'm not sure I will find someone suitable doing the correct surfacing of the manifold, short of driving 300 kms to my engine machine shop.

[Dave Koehler]

After reading it all here, I had Mike put a tube of JB Weld in my order. I will probably epoxy the bar on the top of the flange while keeping it level to the flange, using 2 screws to keep it in place. After my ordeal with the engine, I'm not sure I will find someone suitable doing the correct surfacing of the manifold, short of driving 300 kms to my engine machine shop.

Do you have a vertical mill?

[1989TransAm]

To the original poster. In this thread we did some serious welding to the intake manifold including what you are talking about. We took .030" off the flanges to square it up. It was used when I bought it so it may not have been perfectly square to start with. Here is the link to the thread and pictures.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=30094