chevy 355

[o1zzon]

Solid roller springs on a flat tappet cam can mean death to the parts involved, probably too much spring pressure. I really don't know what street driving means in Sweden. The asking price for the Dart combo looks good, but it might not suit your needs. If you are thinking of spending over $1500 on your engine, maybe something else might work better. I woud look at heads with 190 to 200 cc intake volumes. Buying aluminum doesn't guarantee performance. Dart makes excellent iron heads. The previously mentioned RHS will work well also. If shipping is an issue, the aluminum may save enough money to make up for the additional price. If you save money by using your intake, you can buy a carb elsewhere. Keep your cam. Don't get hung up on trying to achive a specific horsepower number.Design a system that will work well in the rpm range you will use on the street. I went from a 350 HP 350 to 450 HP 406 and both engines would spin the tires endlessly on the street, I could barely tell the difference until I put slicks on it at the track. The Comp cams website has a free software download (cam quest) that will allow you to plug in various combinations to see what effect the have on the power curve. It will recommend a cam based on the usage you select.

can not it be great if I mount a good roller cam then? do you think the dart heads is too much for my engine? if I would go for Aluminum heads then I can keep my cam? with a good result?
my cam is mild? or?
I am seeking as much power as possible without changing the base of the engine at the moment.

[Troy Patterson]

Shoot, I'd go with a set of bigger heads, a single plane and a good ol' double pumper about 800 - 900 cfm, annular boosters - you'd make more HP I'm a big head, small cam believer.

Troy Patterson tmpcarbs.blogspot TMP Carbs TMPCarbs.net

you think I should go for the darts? without changing my current cam? what do you think of 215cc on my engine that street engine? will it be overkill, or will it be fine?

I'm a big fan of the 351 Cleveland four barrel head on the 351 displacement or the 302 for that matter. In my opinion, the bigger head is the way to go however, it may require a little better carb and / or a little better tune in the carburetor to pull it all together - just keep that in mind.

Troy Patterson tmpcarbs.blogspot TMP Carbs TMPCarbs.net

[o1zzon]

Shoot, I'd go with a set of bigger heads, a single plane and a good ol' double pumper about 800 - 900 cfm, annular boosters - you'd make more HP I'm a big head, small cam believer.

Troy Patterson tmpcarbs.blogspot TMP Carbs TMPCarbs.net

you think I should go for the darts? without changing my current cam? what do you think of 215cc on my engine that street engine? will it be overkill, or will it be fine?

I'm a big fan of the 351 Cleveland four barrel head on the 351 displacement or the 302 for that matter. In my opinion, the bigger head is the way to go however, it may require a little better carb and / or a little better tune in the carburetor to pull it all together - just keep that in mind.

Troy Patterson tmpcarbs.blogspot TMP Carbs TMPCarbs.net

okay so you think they will fit well with my engine? You have reached the tips on a good cam for those heads? it is 215cc of them. or should I invest in some aluminum heads with 190-200cc as "rfoll" wrote?

[o1zzon]

Solid roller springs on a flat tappet cam can mean death to the parts involved, probably too much spring pressure. I really don't know what street driving means in Sweden. The asking price for the Dart combo looks good, but it might not suit your needs. If you are thinking of spending over $1500 on your engine, maybe something else might work better. I woud look at heads with 190 to 200 cc intake volumes. Buying aluminum doesn't guarantee performance. Dart makes excellent iron heads. The previously mentioned RHS will work well also. If shipping is an issue, the aluminum may save enough money to make up for the additional price. If you save money by using your intake, you can buy a carb elsewhere. Keep your cam. Don't get hung up on trying to achive a specific horsepower number.Design a system that will work well in the rpm range you will use on the street. I went from a 350 HP 350 to 450 HP 406 and both engines would spin the tires endlessly on the street, I could barely tell the difference until I put slicks on it at the track. The Comp cams website has a free software download (cam quest) that will allow you to plug in various combinations to see what effect the have on the power curve. It will recommend a cam based on the usage you select.

can not it be great if I mount a good roller cam then? do you think the dart heads is too much for my engine? if I would go for Aluminum heads then I can keep my cam? with a good result?
my cam is mild? or?
I am seeking as much power as possible without changing the base of the engine at the moment.

what do you think?

[rfoll]

Good street engine and as much power as possible are likely mutually exclusive terms for a novice engine builder. Stay away from the solid roller stuff. You need to take smaller steps to get an idea of how everything responds to change. The Dart package will ruin the low rpm/off idle of your engine. It will make more power, but at a higher RPM. The K-1000 springs are way too big for a flat tappet street cam. They will eat your parts. Start with a larger carb like a 750 vacuum secondary and play with the opening rate for the secondaries. Find a good deal on some better heads. The Edelbrock heads are decent, but more power can be had from many of the other manufacturers. Shipping costs can make aluminum heads a better deal. The standard Performer is an excellent manifold. If your intake manifold is one of the RPM models, you have all you need for a street driven car. A change to a performer RPM will extend the usable range and horsepower without losing much if any low rpm power. At this point You might consider a larger cam when you change the manifold. You can't go far without changing the torque converter to something like 3000 RPM. A Comp 12-246-3 would be a good choice here.

[Troy Patterson]

Look, you can do this and have excellent results, drive-ability, low end, mid range and top end:

1) bolt a 1.45" dia venturi mechanical carb with good annular boosters on that engine. I sell remanufactured cores reasonably priced, if your budget allows, we can do a new one with all the bells and whisltes. If you really want to make it fun and have more to spend, add the 1:1 adjustable linkage and base plate;
2) a modified single plane with port divider extensions, thermal barrier coating;
3) large valve / port heads, high swirl chambers;
4) the right cam to compliment the heads and induction;
5) good headers w/ 1.75" primaries

I've seen where people dump lots of money into build the conservative engine only to be disappointed with the results. Forget the dual plane intake. Invest a little more in a single plane with divider extensions, you can buy them from me - they make as much or more low end, more mid range and more top end. The big ports with the right cam together with the modified single plane will be very streetable, have low end and best of all, will provide the experience of an engine that continues to build more and more power as the rev's up.

Vacuum secondary carbs are for stock to very mild engines, tow vehicles, etc.

Troy Patterson tmpcarbs.blogspot TMP Carbs TMPCarbs.net

[o1zzon]

Good street engine and as much power as possible are likely mutually exclusive terms for a novice engine builder. Stay away from the solid roller stuff. You need to take smaller steps to get an idea of how everything responds to change. The Dart package will ruin the low rpm/off idle of your engine. It will make more power, but at a higher RPM. The K-1000 springs are way too big for a flat tappet street cam. They will eat your parts. Start with a larger carb like a 750 vacuum secondary and play with the opening rate for the secondaries. Find a good deal on some better heads. The Edelbrock heads are decent, but more power can be had from many of the other manufacturers. Shipping costs can make aluminum heads a better deal. The standard Performer is an excellent manifold. If your intake manifold is one of the RPM models, you have all you need for a street driven car. A change to a performer RPM will extend the usable range and horsepower without losing much if any low rpm power. At this point You might consider a larger cam when you change the manifold. You can't go far without changing the torque converter to something like 3000 RPM. A Comp 12-246-3 would be a good choice here.

must begin with and thanks for all the good information for me that is new beginners =) I'm open to suggestions for improvement on my engine and I want to learn as much as possible. may not dart heads are as good a choice for me anyway ..
can you give some great tips on a couple of aluminum heads? and a good cam to them like from Summit's website? Please some heads as I can port more in the future if I want more power and when I have learned more about how everything works, I do not know what I have to intake it is performence it in all fall.min converter I have living quarters on 2500rpm

thanks so much for the info
/ o1zzon

[o1zzon]

Look, you can do this and have excellent results, drive-ability, low end, mid range and top end:

1) bolt a 1.45" dia venturi mechanical carb with good annular boosters on that engine. I sell remanufactured cores reasonably priced, if your budget allows, we can do a new one with all the bells and whisltes. If you really want to make it fun and have more to spend, add the 1:1 adjustable linkage and base plate;
2) a modified single plane with port divider extensions, thermal barrier coating;
3) large valve / port heads, high swirl chambers;
4) the right cam to compliment the heads and induction;
5) good headers w/ 1.75" primaries

I've seen where people dump lots of money into build the conservative engine only to be disappointed with the results. Forget the dual plane intake. Invest a little more in a single plane with divider extensions, you can buy them from me - they make as much or more low end, more mid range and more top end. The big ports with the right cam together with the modified single plane will be very streetable, have low end and best of all, will provide the experience of an engine that continues to build more and more power as the rev's up.

Vacuum secondary carbs are for stock to very mild engines, tow vehicles, etc.

Troy Patterson tmpcarbs.blogspot TMP Carbs TMPCarbs.net

how much you take for a modified carburetor for my future combo? is not it better with a 2 storey intake on a street engine rpm to not so much? I do not want to be 8000rpm been conducted to get maximum power on the engine?. it is you're the expert =)

Tanks forums the info
/ o1zzon

[Troy Patterson]

I build remanufactured double pumpers starting at around $300.00 and they go up from there. Of course, the more you spend, the more performance you get.

The single plane with a port divider extensions match or exceed the dual plane for low end (with a good carb and tune) plus make all the mid range and top end of a good single plane, maybe more depending on how much money you spend. There is another 10-30 potential horsepower depending on the combination in further prep'ing the intake imo.

I've done back to back testing with this on a number of engines with both normal sized carbs and very large carbs - not with data acquisition, but the gains were clear enough to easy tell the difference.

Troy Patterson tmpcarbs.blogspot TMP Carbs TMPCarbs.net

[o1zzon]

I build remanufactured double pumpers starting at around $300.00 and they go up from there. Of course, the more you spend, the more performance you get.

The single plane with a port divider extensions match or exceed the dual plane for low end (with a good carb and tune) plus make all the mid range and top end of a good single plane, maybe more depending on how much money you spend. There is another 10-30 potential horsepower depending on the combination in further prep'ing the intake imo.

I've done back to back testing with this on a number of engines with both normal sized carbs and very large carbs - not with data acquisition, but the gains were clear enough to easy tell the difference.

Troy Patterson tmpcarbs.blogspot TMP Carbs TMPCarbs.net

okay but when I stand for carburetors? so you recommend a single-port intake.. what will I end up on the rpm with a single intake?

[Troy Patterson]

The single plane may extend the rpm range a little, but not a lot of it does. It really depends on how well the combination of parts works together in the higher rpm range.

Troy Patterson tmpcarbs.blogspot TMP Carbs TMPCarbs.net

[levisnteeshirt]

i like 750 vs carbs ,, they do better than alot of people give them credit for , i've had them on stock 283's to you name it ,,, i had one on a 355 ,,, we cut the choke horn , smoothed the top of the body , dressed the top and bottom of the venturis ,,, broke a 12 bolt axle with a pump gas 355

called the engine builder ,, he said , " well you must have put a different carburator on it " ,,, NOPE

if you don't have a big converter 4000 rpm + ,, without alot of compression and alot of gear , i'd put a VS carb on it everytime ,,, a 600 dp does great on a mild build , nothing is worse than too much carb IMO ,,, it makes for a miserable ride ,,, been there done it


yeah yeah yeah ,,, standing by to take a rashing of shit from the carb experts ,,,, i'd take something under-carbed everyday rather than over ,, its very obvious that this person is pretty new to this stuff ,,, no need to blow smoke up his ass about a high dollar carburator

[o1zzon]

The single plane may extend the rpm range a little, but not a lot of it does. It really depends on how well the combination of parts works together in the higher rpm range.

Troy Patterson tmpcarbs.blogspot TMP Carbs TMPCarbs.net

okay I understand! sounds good =) should think about how I do. but I must have some heads too =)

[o1zzon]

i like 750 vs carbs ,, they do better than alot of people give them credit for , i've had them on stock 283's to you name it ,,, i had one on a 355 ,,, we cut the choke horn , smoothed the top of the body , dressed the top and bottom of the venturis ,,, broke a 12 bolt axle with a pump gas 355

called the engine builder ,, he said , " well you must have put a different carburator on it " ,,, NOPE

if you don't have a big converter 4000 rpm + ,, without alot of compression and alot of gear , i'd put a VS carb on it everytime ,,, a 600 dp does great on a mild build , nothing is worse than too much carb IMO ,,, it makes for a miserable ride ,,, been there done it


yeah yeah yeah ,,, standing by to take a rashing of shit from the carb experts ,,,, i'd take something under-carbed everyday rather than over ,, its very obvious that this person is pretty new to this stuff ,,, no need to blow smoke up his ass about a high dollar carburator

it sounds like a good carb. it is difficult to say what I'm going to have carburetor before I decided a few heads. Have you reached the proposal in a couple of nice heads for my engine and a good cam to the heads?

[barnym17]

I am probably going to catch it for this suggestion buy here goes by mickey eared heads i think you are talking double humps.If your goal is only 400hp I would retain them or get vortecs.Performer rpm intake or victor jr.Upgrade the cam to something simular to comp 292h magnum.On carb I like the 3310 holley for street strip use a vac secondary carb automaticaly sizes itself to the engine impossible to over carb.Your biggest bang for the buck(or kronen) would be to get a 9 or ten inch converter stalled in the 3500 to 4000 range it will make a bigger diff. than the engine mods you are thinking of. This combo of double hump 1.94 valve heads and cam with 8.5 to 1 comp in my buddy's camaro netted 8.13's in the 1/8th mile .That was with 3000 stall converter and 4.56 gear upping the compression to 12.5 to 1 netted 7.70's so I would suspect you would be right in the middle at about 8.0 flat 1/8tyh mile.That is a low 12 second 1/4 not bad for a driver.