oil restricting

General engine tech -- Drag Racing to Circle Track

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falcongeorge
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Post by falcongeorge »

Oh, and before we too sidetracked by all the negativity going on here, Bret, your 385 series ROCKS.
Beretta

Post by Beretta »

Still wondering if I can use a "off the shelf" cam with a .850 roller wheel...

It's been some good reading but can we get back to the new question at hand??? Thanks
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Post by CamKing »

PFC1 wrote:As for telling people to "find another hobby". That right there is a foolish statement from someone who sells performance parts. Most people do have a limited budget.
We all have a budget, and we all learn to work within that budget.
I understand budgets. I don't understand cutting corners.
My $200 hydraulic cams are straightened and ground to the same tolerances as my $1,000 cams. There are people that can't see the difference between cutting costs, and cutting corners. Those people can give good products a bad name.
I've told many a potential customer to call Comp Cams.
I've also helped out a good many customers dealing with money issues, just because they were refusing to cut corners, and settle for "good enough".

If something works for you in your limited application, good for you.
I'm going to recommend what I know works. I'm also going to recommend on the side of reliability. If someone doesn't say it only has to live for 20 seconds, I'm going to assume it needs to live a lot longer then that.
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PFC1
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Post by PFC1 »

falcongeorge wrote:Oh, and before we too sidetracked by all the negativity going on here, Bret, your 385 series ROCKS.
Thanks for the compliment, those heads are 40 year old OEM iron D0OE-Rs that I've rubbed on... well maybe a little more than rubbed on! :wink:

Thanks, Bret
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Post by CamKing »

Beretta wrote:Still wondering if I can use a "off the shelf" cam with a .850 roller wheel...

It's been some good reading but can we get back to the new question at hand??? Thanks
While it's best to have a cam designed for the wheel size, it most cases, it makes very little difference.
With the .850" wheel, your off the shelf cam will grow about 1 degree in seat duration, less then 2 degrees at .050", and back to about 1 degree at .200". Your max velocity and acceleration will go up, but no more then it would if you went up a half a point in rocker ratio.

Your best bet is to tell the cam company your roller wheel size when ordering your next cam.
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falcongeorge
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Post by falcongeorge »

HOLY CRAP! NOW I'm IMPRESSED! :notworthy: Sometime over the next while, I will be building a 385 series for a friends '67 fairlane, just looking for high tens from a ten wide, 3600 lb street car, solid cam mildly ported CJ heads, probably about 12/1. When we get close, I will put up a post, look forward to your input!
Beretta

Post by Beretta »

CamKing wrote:
Beretta wrote:Still wondering if I can use a "off the shelf" cam with a .850 roller wheel...

It's been some good reading but can we get back to the new question at hand??? Thanks
While it's best to have a cam designed for the wheel size, it most cases, it makes very little difference.
With the .850" wheel, your off the shelf cam will grow about 1 degree in seat duration, less then 2 degrees at .050", and back to about 1 degree at .200". Your max velocity and acceleration will go up, but no more then it would if you went up a half a point in rocker ratio.

Your best bet is to tell the cam company your roller wheel size when ordering your next cam.

Thanks Harold........I committed over on another post "540 build" and would like a cam from you if you can with the info I have so far..
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Post by PFC1 »

Beretta wrote:
CamKing wrote:
Beretta wrote:Still wondering if I can use a "off the shelf" cam with a .850 roller wheel...

It's been some good reading but can we get back to the new question at hand??? Thanks
While it's best to have a cam designed for the wheel size, it most cases, it makes very little difference.
With the .850" wheel, your off the shelf cam will grow about 1 degree in seat duration, less then 2 degrees at .050", and back to about 1 degree at .200". Your max velocity and acceleration will go up, but no more then it would if you went up a half a point in rocker ratio.

Your best bet is to tell the cam company your roller wheel size when ordering your next cam.

Thanks Harold........I committed over on another post "540 build" and would like a cam from you if you can with the info I have so far..
CamKing is NOT Harold Brookshire, if that is what you are assuming. His name here is UDHarold. Harold has been doing cams for me since around '93 or so.
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falcongeorge
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Post by falcongeorge »

I have bought cams from Harold back when he was Ultradyne. He knows his stuff.Still have one of his cams here, it will be going back in my FE when I put it back together.
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Post by Mpcoluv »

So people who use lifter bore bushings to control oiling issues are going about it wrong also?
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Post by Lem Evans »

Bushing the lifter bores is the only effective way to restrict a production 429/460 block . The A460 race block is a different animal .
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Post by CamKing »

Mpcoluv wrote:So people who use lifter bore bushings to control oiling issues are going about it wrong also?
No, because you're restricting the oil at each lifter, and not restricting the whole lifter galley. Like I said, I don't want to restrict oil to the top-end. I want to figure out how to get it back down. If you look at most high-end racing engines(Pro-Stock, NASCAR, Indy Car, Daytona Prototypes), they have extra oiling to the top-end, and flood it with oil.

If you can't get the oil back down quick enough, and you have to reduce the oil to the top-end, there are better ways then oil restrictors in the block. Lifter bore bushings, or restrictive pushrods are a much better answer.
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btnhra
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Don't

Post by btnhra »

I took the restrictors out 9 years ago. I use Comp Cams roller lifters and not a problem since. My BBC goes to 7,500 rpm. Now I change just to be safe every 200 to 300 runs. With oil restrictors they went away at 100 runs.
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Re: Don't

Post by PFC1 »

btnhra wrote:I took the restrictors out 9 years ago. I use Comp Cams roller lifters and not a problem since. My BBC goes to 7,500 rpm. Now I change just to be safe every 200 to 300 runs. With oil restrictors they went away at 100 runs.
Chevrolet is a hole different deal! Not designed for the restrictors.

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Post by Strange Magic »

As far as restricting, you really need to have a complete understanding of what your up against and there is no correct one way or another.

Certain engines will benift mechanically from being restricted because it will allow for oil to be directed away from an area that might not need to be flooded as much, and redirect it to an area that might need it more. Oil, volume and pressure will take the path of least resistance. Some engines have inherent issues of oil starvation on the mains and rods when altering the factory intended rpm and hp rating.

If you understand the player, you can size up an oil pump, the engines oil passages (by enlarging or restricting) and make hp and still come out with a very mechanically sound engine.

An aggressive oil pump in conjunction with a pan not sized accordingly and vacuum in the crankcase can be a real major issue and unfortunately many run around like this.
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