4 inch stroke 4inch bore sbc

sanfordandson · Post by **sanfordandson** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 7:37 pm

well now its come down to finding the right rod. scats pro comp does not some in 2.00 and there other line that does come in 2.00 is not profiled the same and does not have the short rod bolts. those eagle max stroke h beams look great but they are heavy @635 grams. i'm looking in the sub 600 range. does anybody else have a nice stroker rod that wont break the bank?

xstfudonniex · Post by **xstfudonniex** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 9:28 pm

af2 wrote:
xstfudonniex wrote:That ends you up with an awful short rod or piston, or both.
Can you elaberate running the same I have to give it a

Im running a 408 SBF, i have an extra .5 inches of deck height and even so with even a 6.125 rod gives me little room before the pin is in the ring stack

Curveit · Post by **Curveit** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 10:16 pm

On another Forum i'm on; Lunati has a "Stroker Rod" is used a lot. Supposed to clear without grinding on it... I think the reduced base Cams are still used.

BEDNAR1320 · Post by **BEDNAR1320** » Thu Jan 08, 2009 8:26 am

I HAVE USED THE EAGLE STROKER CLEARANCED RODS IN A 4"STROKE CHEVY BLOCK 434,I DID NOT LIKE THE WAY THEY LOOKED(THEY REMOVE A LOT OF MEAT AND SOME OF THE BOLT) BUT THIS MOTOR HAS 87 1/4 MILE PASSES ON IT WITH NO PROBLEMS,THIS IS A PRETTY STOUT MOTOR,IT HAS 18DEGREE HEADS AND RUNS 7.70'S IN A DRAGSTER GOING THROUGH THE LIGHTS AT 7600RPM.

robert1 · Post by **robert1** » Thu Jan 08, 2009 8:59 am

xstfudonniex wrote:
af2 wrote:
xstfudonniex wrote:That ends you up with an awful short rod or piston, or both.
Can you elaberate running the same I have to give it a
Im running a 408 SBF, i have an extra .5 inches of deck height and even so with even a 6.125 rod gives me little room before the pin is in the ring stack

Interesting, the first one of those I built was a 4.062 stroke, 6.200" rods, and a standard 6.000" rod chevy piston (1.250" CH) which wound up just under 415 CI.

kimosabi · Post by **kimosabi** » Mon Dec 11, 2017 9:59 am

TTT! Been pondering alot on this lately. Anyone still here ever ran a square sbc?

pdq67 · Post by **pdq67** » Mon Dec 11, 2017 10:04 am

Way back before the 327" became King, guys made 4x4/283" block engines. 402" engines!!

pdq67

Cris · Post by **Cris** » Mon Dec 11, 2017 2:57 pm

Joe Sherman has been there, done that. Here's an article on one:

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/projec ... ck-hybrid/

PackardV8 · Post by **PackardV8** » Mon Dec 11, 2017 3:09 pm

would like to try more stroke but keep the cubes. these heavy cars can use the stroke and torque.

How did we get through page 2 of this discussion without anyone questioning the OP's above statement?

leahymtsps · Post by **leahymtsps** » Mon Dec 11, 2017 4:52 pm

PackardV8 wrote: ↑Mon Dec 11, 2017 3:09 pm
would like to try more stroke but keep the cubes. these heavy cars can use the stroke and torque.
How did we get through page 2 of this discussion without anyone questioning the OP's above statement?

Jack, I take it you didn't see the questions original date ? ( Tue Jan 06, 2009 2:00 pm )

Tom

kimosabi · Post by **kimosabi** » Tue Dec 12, 2017 3:09 am

Yeah I like finding threads of the topic I ask before making new identical ones. Less cluttery.

So, as a nice winter project I have this 1970 sbc block and wanna build something fun out of it. I blew alot of $$$ on the 400 build last year that's in the car now so budget is more limited this time. I am thinking 383, hell maybe a 396. Or a 408. Maybe just start off block filling it.

pdq67 · Post by **pdq67** » Tue Dec 12, 2017 5:55 am

Heck,a short-rod, stock crank 406 is a cheap engine to build and runs pretty good by me.

Sure, long rods would be better, but for the money, not bad at all.

Build it for torque!

pdq67

KnightEngines · Post by **KnightEngines** » Tue Dec 12, 2017 7:17 am

Figure what you wanna do before you fill it - if you cut through & the block is already filled you're in trouble, block filler is porous & will no hold water.
If you go through you gotta seal it up 1st with epoxy (JB weld or devcon, not Splashzone for sealing holes) then fill it.
So you want to make the rotator fit before you fill.

I use junk pistons to dummy the crank & rods so I don't have to bore it before I can clearance it.

kimosabi · Post by **kimosabi** » Tue Dec 12, 2017 8:49 am

Thanks, did not know that. I haven't done a block fill before so tips like that are very much appreciated.

Pdq67 the engine will be built for street torque for sure. Peak hp at about 5500rpm or so. I think a square deal like that and a turbo will work really nice. No big boost stuff, just a nice little tire burner.

DaveMcLain · Post by **DaveMcLain** » Tue Dec 12, 2017 9:47 am

sanfordandson wrote: ↑Tue Jan 06, 2009 2:00 pm has anyone tried this combo lately? i am considering building one for a heavy dirt circle track car with a 2bbl. no ci or compression limit. currently run a standard 4.155 bore 406 but would like to try more stroke but keep the cubes. these heavy cars can use the stroke and torque. i'm thinking valve shrouding wont be an issue since our restriction is a 7448 2bbl and we typically run a 2.02 1.6 valve.

thanks for any info!

Waste of time. Torque comes from displacement not stroke.

Don Terrill’s Speed-Talk

4 inch stroke 4inch bore sbc

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