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BLP or Quick fuel for billet metering blocks

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BLP or Quick fuel for billet metering blocks

Postby My427stang » Sun Jul 27, 2008 2:33 pm

Looking to get something a bit more adjustable.

Anyone have any experience with either, mostly street use, early 1000HP 4150
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Re: BLP or Quick fuel for billet metering blocks

Postby trmnatr » Sun Jul 27, 2008 2:53 pm

My427stang wrote:Looking to get something a bit more adjustable.

Anyone have any experience with either, mostly street use, early 1000HP 4150


BLP blocks are good
I have never just used Quickfuel blocks but i guess they would be ok ??
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Postby jmarkaudio » Sun Jul 27, 2008 9:00 pm

What are you trying to adjust? You really shouldn't have to mess with e-holes, the IFR's would be the only thing you may need to adjust.
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Postby My427stang » Sun Jul 27, 2008 9:16 pm

This has been an ongoing battle with me and this 489FE street Mustang

Part throttle steady buck and a slow to respond transition circuit in the 1500-2000 rpm range, dont think "idle" dont think "WOT" think about driving around in town.

I have it at sort of at bay by decreasing IAB size and increasing IFR area, but its just a bandaid adding a ton a fuel in those circuits, and having it come in early, its rich, and its not right, but it covers it a little and makes it acceptabl. I dont like it though and want to be able to work the entire curve, hence the new blocks

I am not alone, lots of guys with the HP series and Street Avenger carbs are fighting it. All other normal tuning and troubleshooting comes up short, standard "add timing", smaller IABs, more IFR, etc, can move it slightly or bandaid it, but guys that play long and hard with WB O2 data seem to have come to the conclusion that its a HP, Avenger, and Barry Grant emulsion problem (I am not a wideband O2 guy, but may buy one seeing the data they have to work with with the new recorders)

The mixture issue is high vacuum, light throttle, low rpm. As you'd expect, I didnt have the issue with a moldy old 4781 I had on the last iteration of the motor, but have fought it continuously since I put the modern carb on.

With that being said, by the time I drill every passage and put removable bleeds in them, why not just buy a billet block with the labor done already?

My question is if anyone has had success or failure with either of those companies, as they both seem to be selling billet plates pretty easily these days and does anyone know the difference in the emulsion characteristics of each?

Ironically when I called QFT to ask what caused the "more agressive" fuel curve in their carbs, they said "its designed that way", I asked, what changed it, they handed me off to the expert who said "its more agressive" LOL

I have not called BLP, but will Monday.
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Postby jmarkaudio » Sun Jul 27, 2008 10:17 pm

I recently got a pair of QF blocks part #34-105 for around $100 a pair for a 2-circuit Dominator conversion. BLP has good blocks as well, not sure on the price. How many e-holes do your blocks have? For a good lesson in e-holes read here.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/foru ... php?t=3371
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Postby andyf » Mon Jul 28, 2008 12:47 am

BLP is great to work with. Just give them a call and tell them what you have and what you're trying to do. They'll build a set of metering blocks for you that should be pretty close. Only issue you'll run into is that the BLP blocks don't use the same emulsion jets that Holley carbs use so you'll need to buy jets from BLP. Not a big deal, you just need to have the correct parts on hand so you are ready to tune.

You might want to drill and tap the passage to the transistion slot so you can put a jet in there. That might be where the problem is coming from. Some of the carb builders these days are putting jets in the transistion slot passage. Since everything is done on a CNC anyway they might as well, it is only another few seconds of cycle time.
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Postby My427stang » Mon Jul 28, 2008 4:14 pm

Andy, thanks for the advice, talked to Bo Laws today and he steered me away from their billet metering plates

Matter of fact, he recommended that we just modify mine, that the billets could make the situation worse due to a relatively poor booster signal with the 1000 HPs.

I need to pull mine down and get some data for him, but looks like we have some direction anyway, and like you said, very nice guy to work with
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Postby andyf » Mon Jul 28, 2008 4:22 pm

Sounds like you're in good hands. I hadn't thought of the booster signal issue with the 1000 HP in a street car but I can see Bo's point. That carb has large venturis so there probably isn't much booster signal at lower speeds. A 950HP that I have works great with the BLP metering plates but the 950 also has much smaller venturis.
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Postby jmarkaudio » Mon Jul 28, 2008 4:56 pm

Is he suggesting plugging e-holes? If there are more than 2 for each mainwell you can gain a little stronger signal by plugging certain ones, my reason for asking how many and size. .026 to .028 on the two you would retain, the top always and the 3rd or 4th depending on weather you have 4 or 5 e-hole would be a good start. .025 MAB's if yours are bigger will help start the mains earlier as well. As far as richening the IFR and decreasing the IAB, you are in effect richening the t-slot also, this is fed by the idle circuit. You lean the idle back by turning the screws in. Just a couple things to try.
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Postby My427stang » Mon Jul 28, 2008 9:47 pm

Thats exactly what he was getting at, although he didnt go into detail, he asked how many I had. With the carb together, I couldnt remember, I'll pull it down tomorrow and look and measure everything and call him back.
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Postby RayJE Carburetors » Tue Jul 29, 2008 6:27 am

Booster design and its nozzel size in a 1000HP body or bigger is the key...

i do a 1.630 cnc'd venturi with a downleg ( as cast the 1000HP bodys are 1.570 .. the machining of the booster is the key for low signal fuel flow.. especially nozzel size........... the nozzel size is akin to the compressor and the cross channel is the regulator ....... if that makes sence

reducing the emulsion hole size and the number of them can in fact and will reduce low to mid range fuel flow all things being equal
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Re: BLP or Quick fuel for billet metering blocks

Postby levisnteeshirt » Sun Jul 15, 2012 10:57 pm

When somebody brings me a 650 hp, easiest way to get them right is to put old style metering blocks on it, especially on these 604's , I have one stealth here with billet blocks and one with old style 2 emulsion hole blocks, I drill out the old ones and tapped them for a 6/32 fitting , I started them out at .020 and a .026 MAB , very good throttle response on a 604, just got back from trying a QF 750 the same way, doesn't seem to like it , I think I'm gonna try .026 & .028 like was mentioned, I've wondered about reducing the kill bleed size, I just got a block here that has no kill bleed at all
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Re: BLP or Quick fuel for billet metering blocks

Postby My427stang » Mon Jul 16, 2012 5:33 am

I guess I never came back and updated

What I ended up doing was using a stock metering block off an early 80s 1850. It has the low mounted early style IFR and fewer e-holes. I simply matched my PVCRs, jets and IFR sizes to the stock 1000 HP dimensions and rode off without a care in the world. Dramatic difference

The car is actually SEFI now, big win in all ways, but not because I didn't get the carb dialed in, I got it very close.
70 Mustang, 489 FE, TKO-600, Massflo SEFI, 4.11s
71 F100 SB 4x4, 445 FE, hot rod 4x4
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